Two planes, one autorickshaw, a ferry and a Sumo: these are what it took for this Scouter to find paradise. Walk on the beach, hike through the forests and dive through the clear, clear seas, and you’ll discover that love came to live on Havelock Island, Andamans.

Eat

Black Beard’s Bistro sits amongst fallen trees on a wide beach, a spectacular setting for their seafood specials. We suggest you steer away from pastas and pick your way through Bengali dishes instead, paying special attention to the prawn masala. Fish you a happy meal!

Black Beard’s Bistro, Emerald Gecko Resort, Beach #5, Havelock Island, Rs 500 for a meal.

If you want a break from all that fresh seafood – really, why would you? – visit B3, a trendy, split-level restaurant that serves a mean burger, creamy hummus and fresh foccacia bread (ask for the Goan sausage version, which is not on the menu). They also do good white snapper, serve wine and beer, and live music on Friday nights.

B3, at the jetty, Havelock Island, Rs 350 for a meal.   

Havelock Island is not exactly party central – most places serve only beer and wine, and wind up by 10.30 pm. But if like us you need a Screwdriver to complete your vacation, the bamboo-lined (and fully stocked) bar at Barefoot Resort is your best bet. Foot the bill!

Barefoot Resort, Radhanagar Beach (#7), Rs 300 for a large vodka with orange juice.

Stay

The above-mentioned Barefoot Resort is a nice mix of luxury and Havelock’s untouched vibe, with airy (and air conditioned) cottages made exclusively from biodegradable materials like bamboo and palm leaves and furniture sourced directly from Bali. The bathrooms, however, are mercifully modern. Along with the bar, the resort also has a decent restaurant that serves Indian, Chinese and Italian fare and will happily cook up fish you catch at sea, as well as a massage center and a super efficient reception staff. Plus, the resort is situated just off Havelock’s prettiest beach, Radhanagar.

Barefoot Resort, Radhanagar Beach (#7), visit www.barefootindia.com, rooms start at Rs 4,500.

If scuba diving is the primary purpose of your visit, try Dive India. Run by a team of super nice instructors, it offers travellers the chance to stay in cute, comfortable Rajasthani desert tents at budget prices, as well as full scuba facilities, including SSI and PADI certification.

Dive India, visit www.diveindia.com, prices start at Rs 3,500.

Do

Scuba diving is the main activity offered in the Andamans, and this can be organised through several outfits including the abovementioned Dive India and Barefoot Scuba. You can also ask your hotel to set up an elephant safari through the forests, fishing expeditions (try Sea Fishing India if you’re looking for a professional experience) and kayaking to isolated islands through the mangrove forests, which we highly recommend.

Also check out the research centre set up by The Andaman and Nicobar Environmental Team (ANET), located a couple of hours from Port Blair, which studies the ecology of the area and provides accommodation and short courses for eco-tourists, as well as excursions for children.

ANET Research Facility, North Wandoor Island, visit http://anetindia.blogspot.com.

Shop

Unlike Goa, Havelock has few shops selling beach wear, so remember to pack your bathing suit. We suggest you do your souvenir collecting on the wide beaches of Havelock, rich with pretty sea shells, but if you must indulge in retail therapy head to Sagarika Emporium at Port Blair. At this government-run store that stocks indigenous crafts, we spotted some fun shell jewellery, colourful beach bags and a super pretty lampshade that makes for terrible hand-luggage.

Sagarika Emporium, MG Road, Port Blair, Rs 350 for shell-fish earrings.

Know

Apart from a few cyber cafes (only one of which has a high-ish speed connection), there is no way to access the internet on Havelock Island. Photon and Reliance internet cards do not work, nor does EDGE technology, and even the GSM network is spotty – a fact that gave this Scouter more than a few bad moments. BSNL and Airtel are your best bets.

Also, mosquitoes buzz through the island in droves, so bring a ton of repellant, along with flashlights (no street lighting) and some munchies for mid-meal snacking, because few beaches have shacks so accessing food is usually a chore.