Bumpy rides in sunny yellow taxis, pineapple pastries from Flury’s for breakfast, civilised screwdrivers and chips at Tolly, pandals strung with a thousand fairy lights: this Scouter caught the tail end of Pujo in Kolkata, when the city shakes off its year-round torpor and is at its dazzling, ripest best. Notes from a weekend in the City of Joy.

Special thanks to Ashok and Bharti Haralalka for their time, hospitality and many, many drinks.

Eat

Despite multiple trips and much gluttony, we’ve barely managed to skim the surface of the culinary cauldron that is Kolkata. These restaurants however, are good places to start if you’re visiting the city: Bhojohari Manna, with its multiple branches and austere vibe, for authentic Bengali food (get luchi, aloo dum, posto, ilesh, chola daal and Rajbhog); Zishaan for kathi rolls; Girish Chandra Dey and Nakuri Nandi for fresh gud (jaggery) sandesh and Floriana at Russell street for a tub of Naturelle Nolen Gud ice cream. Also super delish is hand-churned Cappuccino Crunch ice cream available at the Alipore branch of the legendary Kookie Jar - remember to grab a sinful mocha biscuit and chocolate boats while you’re there.  Be still, my eating heart.

Other favourites: Flury’s for puffs, above mentioned pineapple pastries and old world charm; Fire & Ice for thin crust pizza; Chinese at Red Hot Chilli Pepper and Zen; Bistro By The Park for iPad menus.

Bhojohori Manna, Plot No. X, Block EP & GP, Sector 5, Salt Lake City, call 03340011211; Zishaan, near Park Circus Tram Depot, Sayed Amir Ali Ave, Circus Avenue, call 03366343397; Girish Chandra Dey, Ramdulal Sircar Street, Shyambazar, call 03322410048; Floriana, 13D, Russel Street, opposite Bengal Club, call 03322293531; Kookie Jar, Enclave No. 17, Belvedere Road, Alipore, call 03324490863.

Still hungry? Find more Kolkata cuisine recommendations here.

Shop

Anamika Khanna and Sabyasachi (“Pepsi” to locals) both have big stores here, stocked with merchandise cheaper and more diverse than what you’ll find in Mumbai. And if it’s labels you’re after, also check out 85 Landsdowne, a multi-designer store in a gorgeous old house that currently has a great line of dresses by Kiran Uttam Ghosh.

For more authentic flavour head to Weavers Studio, where you’ll find carefully curated woven stoles, saris and if you’re lucky, even a Bengali movie screening or classical music concert  at the sister-space next door. Also stop by Shyamlin Dudeja’s lovely home for super intricate Katha embroidery, painstakingly done onto saris, dupattas and fabrics, regularly patronised by Kolkata’s most in-the-know fashionistas. Finally, spend a couple of hours in Dhakuria Market, where you  can  browse through typical wares from West Bengal as well as other states. Root here!

Anamika Khanna,  2/1 Outram Street, Park Circus, call 03322814425; Sabyasachi, 545 Lake Road, near Vivekananda Park; 85 Lansdowne 85B Sarat Bose Road, call 03324862136; Weavers  Studio, 94, Ballygunge Place, Ballygunge Place, call 03324408926; Shyamlin Dudeja, Alipore residence, call  +91-9830026288 to make an appointment.

Do

The “club culture” is alive and kicking in Kolkata, where residents spend many an evening at a country club, perfecting their golf swings, swilling whiskey and noshing on masala peanuts. The city boasts a profusion of these, the most popular of which include Tollygunge Club, The Calcutta Cricket and Football Club (CCFC) and The Calcutta Club. These are members only so you might need a local to hook you up, but some are also affiliated with clubs in Mumbai.

If you have the time, rent a boat or catch a ferry from the Man-o-War jetty for a day cruise upriver. You can see all the old factories around Howrah Bridge and go up to the pretty and historic Diamond Harbour; or stop by swanky Ganga Kutir resort in Raichak, complete with Sri Lankan architecture, full spa and an infinity pool.

The Tollygunge Club, 120 Deshapran Sasmal Road; Calcutta Cricket & Football Club, 19/1,  Gurusaday Road, call 03324615060; The Calcutta Club, 241, A. J. C. Bose Road, call 03322236030; Ganga Kutir Resort, Raichak on Ganges,  Sarisa, call 03174275632/33 or visit www.gangakutir.com.