It’s not until you’ve left the wide swath of Nile, walked away from the pyramids of Giza, bid the Sphinx goodbye (she sends you off with a kiss) that you fully absorb the majesty of what you’ve witnessed. Back in Mumbai 24 hours, this Scouter is still reeling from the crazy-awesome-goodness that is Cairo. PS: Many thanks to Amit Damani and Sid Khanna for inputs.

Stay

This is the perfect time to visit Egypt – the weather is lovely (between 20 – 12 degrees Celsius), and the lack of tourists due to “protests” have made the country unusually inexpensive. Take advantage of cratered prices and indulge in digs at the Four Seasons Nile Plaza, located in the middle of the city (Tahrir Square is a ten minute walk) with rooms that open out right onto the water. If you’re a history buff, try the much prettier Oberoi Mena on the Giza bank, with jaw-dropping views of the pyramids, lush gardens and opulent bar that serves a mean cocktail and great spring rolls. It’s about an hour out of the city, though, and traffic in Cairo is worse than it is in Mumbai.

Four Seasons Nile Plaza, 1089 Corniche El Nil, Garden City , call +20 (2) 2791-7000, rooms currently start at $200; The Mena House Oberoi, Pyramids' Road, Giza, +20 (2) 3377 3222 , rooms start at $140.

Eat

Abou el Sid looks like an Egyptian restaurant out of a Disney movie – only it’s often frequented by locals, and wears its mosaic-tiles and ornate sheeshas without any irony. Located in the trendy Zamalek neighborhood, go here for a bottle of red Egyptian wine (surprisingly delish), colourful mezze platters and sausages stuffed with rice. Those willing to brave street food should head to Abu Tarek near the Cairo Museum and try koshari – along with being yum, it’s also vegetarian.

Italian food in Cairo? Really? If you must, try La Mezzaluna and Maison Thomas, also in Zamalek.

Abou el Sid 48, Giza Street, Apt. 83, Zamalek; Abu Tarek, 16 Maarouf, Sham Plion Street.

Drink

Located on the Nile, Sequoia is one of the trendiest, swankiest bars in Cairo, with plush white couches, gorgeous people and pumping music – think Aurus. The city also has its own Buddha Bar at the Sofitel, split level and a favorite amongst high-end revelers. For a more local feel, go to Horreya, the Egyptian version of Leopold or Mondy’s.

Sequoia, 53 Abou El Feda St., Zamalek, Cairo,  call +20 (2) 2735 0014; Buddha Bar, Sofitel El Gezirah, Giza.

Shop

There’s no way to sugarcoat this, ladies: the shopping in Cairo is mostly junk. You’ll find the same old silver jewelry and evil eyes, scarabs and amber, papyrus and flower oils – and no matter how much you bargain, you’ll probably get ripped off. Nonetheless, a walk through the maze of Khan el-Khalili market in Islamic Cairo (much cleaner and better organized than those in Mumbai) is a lot of fun, and we did find some treasures, including a gorgeous old perfume bottle. Don’t leave without visiting Description Of Egypt, a unique little store that sells over 10,000 old photographs, books and lovingly restored memorabilia. We loved, for instance, a collection of silver medals from the military, tarnished to a lovely grey with blue and green stones.

Do

No photograph can prepare you for the pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx – spearing up against the bluest skies you’ve ever seen, these are mind-bendingly awesome. Do the rest of the history stuff (museums, temples, etc), but remember too to walk around Tahrir Square: the protests have largely dissipated, leaving behind an atmosphere that is convivial, welcoming and most importantly, safe. This Scouter visited at different times – including late at night – and never felt threatened. And finally, grab a bottle of wine, have your hotel pack up a picnic, and take a felucca (sailboat) ride on the Nile. It may be touristy but like much of this city, it’ll make you smile.