Alive in Concert

So you have tickets to the Guetta gig in Pune on March 10 and no place to shack up. Follow our three-step guide: 1. Put that tent away. 2. Punch those smug I-told-you-so friends. 3. Call Chorush.

A recently launched music tourism company, Chorush handles your accommodation when you’re travelling to watch a music concert, and specialises in last minute bookings. Take that, friends on high horses. Run by 21 year-old Suraj Talreja and Crish Chainani, the word Chorush is a literal melding of their two favourite things. “Singing the chorus of a song at a rock concert with a hundred other voices + the rush you get while doing it. Hence, cho-rush,” says Suraj, spelling it out. They may be only three concerts old– NH7 Weekender, Pune; Summer Storm Festival, Bangalore; David Guetta, Pune – (not as official partners),  but they’re  already planning hotel tie ups for Sunburn SummerFest 2012, Mumbai and dreaming up ways to let you have your stay at Belgium’s Tomorrowland.

The Gig Picture

What we like about Chorush, apart from their consideration for last minute planners, is that they pass on the benefit of wholesale hotel bookings to individuals, and scope out affordable but interesting accommodation. Their Pune stay for the David Guetta show for instance, is The Gypsy House, cool service apartments that bpb knows and loves and highly recommends. While rooms here start at Rs 4,000, Suraj can do the deal for Rs 2,600. Suraj means sun, yes? So bright!

Signing up with Chorush also means getting small freebies like free energy drinks before the show, cocktails after, and the chance to live next door to music-loving people who like you, want to scream out loud at 2 am because they just got back from the best gig ever!

Getting there: Chorush, visit http://www.chorush.com or view the Facebook page here, Rs 2,500 for a one night for the David Guetta package in Pune.

This Scouter’s sibling and honorary member of the bpb crew continent-hopped all the way to Brazil recently, coming back with stories of silvery beaches, heaving crowds, salsa moves and a chance encounter involving copious amounts of alcohol and a Giselle look-alike. He might have made that last one up, but the rest of his recommendations are rock solid. PS: Big shout out to Akshat Poddar and Aditya Parekh for inputs.

Stay

It may not be on the beach, but one of the prettiest hotels in Rio is Hotel Santa Teresa, located in the historic and hilly Santa Teresa neighborhood that’s experiencing a huge revival with the city’s hipsters. With under 50 rooms, each of which display indigenous (yet non-cheesy) art and crafts, the hotel also boasts a super pool and full service spa. Rio has a ton of hostels too, but backpackers, be prepared to deal with dodgy roommates, spotty internet connections and sometimes even roaches. Still game? Try Mellow Yellow hostel, which has its own bar and is located only ten minutes away from Copacabana, Rio’s most commercial beach.

Hotel Santa Teresa, Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 660 Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro-RJ 20241-260, call +55 (21) 33800200 or visit the website here.

Mello Yellow Hostel, Rua General Barbosa Lima, 51 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro-RJ 22011-060, call +55 (21) 22333815 or visit the website here.

Eat

Like most of South America, Brazilian cuisine is all about seafood and meat, so if you’re a vegetarian, you’d better enjoy beans with rice, a staple. Zuka is a fun restaurant, located in the uber-trendy Leblon area and serving similarly trendy food. We loved everything we ate here, including creamy chicken and sweet, succulent lamb, but that might have something to do with the huge wine list that we felt obliged to raid. Also try Aprazivel in Santa Teresa, located in a pretty garden with fragrant flowers and astounding views of the city. Here you’ll find “modern” Brazilian cuisine, including the best free-range chicken we’ve ever eaten, baked bananas and – hallelujah! – some vegetarian options.

Zuka, Rua Dias Ferreira, 233 - Leblon, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22431-050, call +55 (21) 32057154.

Aprazivel, Rua Aprazível, 62 - Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 20241-270, call +55 (21) 25089174 or visit the website here.

Drink

You can’t walk two steps in Rio without bumping into a drink – and unlike our bartenders back home, these guys are generous with their alcohol. Don’t leave without visiting Rio Scenarium, a four storey antique store that has been converted into one of the city’s hottest night spots. Unlike most clubs, though, it isn’t dark and dingy – there’s plenty of light, every table is unique, a local band belts out awesome tunes and tourists mingle with (hot!) locals at the bar. Make a reservation in advance if you can – tables are often booked out for over a week.

Also try Casa Roja, a former brothel, for Brazilian hip-hop; branch of the Belgian beer chain Delirium Café for the best beer ever; and the beach shacks on Copacabana and Ipanema for some sip-and-surf. Finally, if you’re feeling really adventurous, venture to The Maze, a local music-and-food bar with awesome views, located in a “favela” – slums best known for drugs and violence, which are slowly cleaning up because of a huge push by local authorities. Wild nights, indeed!

Rio Scenarium, Rua do Lavrádio, 36 - Centro, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 20230-070, call +55 (21) 31479007.

Delirium Café, Rua Barão da Torre 183, Ipanema, call +55 (21) 2502 2209 or visit the website here.

The Maze, Rua Tavares Bastos, 414 – Catete, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22221-030, call +55 (21) 25585541 or visit the website here.

Shop

There are tons of little local stores around Copacabana and Ipanema, but walk in knowing that you’ll probably get ripped off. A more fun way to indulge in tourist-trap spending is the Saturday flea market in the old neighborhood of Centro, known to yield up everything from finely carved sickles to pin-up posters from the 1960s.

What’s New, Delhi? bpb travelled North last weekend to find cool stores, bakeries, cafes and super chilled temperatures in the Capital. We returned to Mumbai as blocks of ice and desperately seeking a chisel. But also with lots of loot for you.

Eat

Elma’s Bakery, Cakes and Tea Room

It’s the kind of café you want involved in one of your significant life stories – maybe you wrote your first book here while gazing at the white grand piano; had a business idea over  blue coloured tea; or met someone super when a power cut made the candelabras go on.  An incident in a pretty café, a memory infused by the smell of freshly baked bread.

Run by the guys behind The Living Room (TLR), headed by a Le Cordon Bleu chef and sunlit by huge windows, Elma’s dishes out the freshest artisan breads (also rising to the occasion is cute, Amelie-esque manager who takes orders), breakfast, sandwiches, dessert and teas in a room that could be someone’s home, complete with Victorian tea sets. bpb recommends the superior sausage roll, Chicken Coronation Sandwich served with home-made mustard and topped with pretty clover leaves, jam scones with clotted cream. You can’t live here, but they are incidentally looking for someone to manage the place. More details on their Facebook page.

24/1 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi, Monday to Sunday, call (011) 26521020 or view the Facebook group here, 10 am to 8 pm, breads start at Rs 120.

Boheme

Sitting pretty above curries (Gunpowder) and corsets (Bodice – see below), this rooftop restaurant/bar that overlooks the lake at Hauz Khas Village is a pretty place to enjoy Delhi’s chill. It opened just a few months ago, we learned, as we hiked a long, long way up to sip beer (they only have Budweiser) and wine under wood canapés, amidst foliage and a bunch of bird houses. We had no room for the Mediterranean food though considering our just-scarfed-down meal at Kainoosh, but we plan to return for the Arabiatta spaghetti soon.

22 Hauz Khas Village, Roof Top, New Delhi, call (011) 2656 1220 or view the Facebook group here.

Sri Lanka accommodates different types of doers – the colonial mansion seeker, the whale watcher, the cricket fan, the tea picker, the jazz lover – many of whom helped us compile this travel list of much, much super stuff to do in Sri Lanka. You can raise your glass of arrack now. Don’t know what that is? Read on.

GALLE:

Home to both ancient European architecture and a brand new cricket stadium, Galle, located on the bottom tip of the Lankan island, is perfect for some R&R – and whale watching.

Stay

The Fortress

Cleverly designed to reflect the myriad architectural influences in Galle – Dutch, Portugese, Sri Lankan – in cool and contemporary ways, The Fortress is perfect for those who enjoy good design, luxurious digs and a good hammock. Not to mention a stretch of prime, pristine beach. Galle, call +9491 4389400, or visit http://www.fortressresortandspa.com/

The Sun and Dutch Houses

Converted from two gorgeous colonial houses are these sister boutique hotels, consistently ranked amongst the best properties in South Asia. Highlights include Sun House’s fleet of vintage cars that guests can use to sightsee around the city, and the Dutch House’s tree top infinity pool, reserved for those staying in one of its four rooms. Super fancy, although the distance from town (and more importantly, the beach) can be a bit of a drag. 18 Upper Dickson Road, Galle, call  (+94) 91 4380275,or visit http://thedutchhouse.com/

Jetwing Lighthouse

Ocean views, eco-friendly amenities and design genius Geoffrey Bawa’s minimalist architecture: Jetwing Lighthouse is the darling of the jet set, and for good reason. If you have particularly itchy feet, try one of the “themed” suites, with decor inspired by China, Morocco and the Netherlands. Safe travels!, Dadella, Galle, call (+94) 91 2223744 or visit http://www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwinglighthouse/

Do

Whale Watching

About forty minutes from Galle is Mirissa Harbour, a tiny fishing village that features pretty beaches, natural coral reef and best of all, awesome opportunities to whale watch. If you’re interested, look up the guys at Mirissa Water Sports – they’re friendly, knowledgeable and have good equipment. Mirissa Harbour, call ₊ 9477 3597731 or visit http://www.mirissawatersports.com/

The Galle Fort

The Portuguese might have laid down the first stones of this mighty fort, but it was the Dutch who reinforced it, with the Sri Lankan government stepping in more recently. One of the monuments to survive the devastating tsunami of 2004, the Galle Fort is a sprawling UNESCO World Heritage site that houses several private homes, churches, mosques and the pretty Oriental Hotel. Fun to walk around in, but remember to wear comfy shoes.

KANDY

Hilly, green, and smack-dab in the middle of Sri Lanka.

Stay

The Kandy House

At this small yet stately boutique hotel, parrots abound in lush gardens and wisps of Buddhist chanting float in from a nearby monastery. Raising the Buddha bar? Once an aristocratic home, the Kandy House is now an eight – room luxury hotel with charming mementos, infinity pool and mean cocktails. No TV or air conditioning in the rooms, though, and wi-fi is only available at the bar. Also, it’s a bit of a haul from the main city. The Kandy House, Amunugama Walauwa, Gunnepana, Kandy, call (+94) 81 4921394 or visit http://thekandyhouse.com/

Do

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage

This should be your good deed for 2012: adopt a baby elephant at this super cute orphanage, which houses and protects over 80 elephants. A little out of Kandy, here visitors can feed the not-so-little ones milk and bananas, help give them a river bath and also buy paper products made from elephant poo. Trunk calls encouraged! Colombo-Kandy road, Pinnawala.

Sri Lanka accommodates different types of doers – the colonial mansion seeker, the whale watcher, the cricket fan, the tea picker, the jazz lover – many of whom helped us compile this travel list of much, much super stuff to do in Sri Lanka. You can raise your glass of arrack now. Don’t know what that is? Read on.

PS: Special thanks to Rachel Wawn, Ashok Kurien, Priyanjali Mariwala, Smita Khanna, Anubhav Kaul and Sarah Rahman.

RESERVATIONS

Walkers Tours: Tried and tested, this travel agent specialises in Sri Lanka holidays, and does group and individual tours. Visit http://www.walkerstours.com.

COLOMBO

In this largest Sri Lankan city, colonial manors become hotels, restaurants overlook cricket stadiums, tea factories offer free tours and (some) clubs stay open until 4 am. *Envy*!

Stay

Tintagel Colombo: After serving as a home for three political leaders including Sri Lanka’s first female Prime Minister, Tintagel turned into a hotel in 2005.  Now, all guests are treated like VIPs in chic suites with private courtyards. 65 Rosmead Place, +9411 4602121, http://www.paradiseroadhotels.com/tintagel.

Gangaramaya Temple Complex: In addition to a nice Buddhist shrine, they have the strangest collection of odds and ends in these museum-style rooms (apparently devotee donations from all over the world) with everything from solid gold Buddhas to pairs of hippy spectacles. 61, Sri Jinaratana Road, +94 11 2327084, http://gangaramaya.com.

Heritance Ahungalla: This lush hotel designed by architectural wizard Geoffrey Bawa is all trees and pools. Other attractions include award-winning in-house chef Dimuthu, Madu river champagne breakfast and white sand beach proximity. Ambalangoda, +9411 5555000 http://www.heritancehotels.com.

Casa Colombo: Book a room here and you’ll live in a 200-year-old mansion with super fun retro detailing like gigantic phones, mad wall art, red-lit beds and quirky showers. 231, Galle Road, Bambalapitiya, Colombo 4, +9411 4520130, http://www.casacolombo.com.

Palm Village Hotel: This ones’s a lot less grand – no beach view, no private villas – but it’s neat and clean for those who are on a budget. 262 Old Colombo Road Uswetakeiyawa, Colombo.

Eat

Room Service: This cool culinary service delivers food from over 50 Colombo restaurants. Pair with hot service apartment. +94115768768, www.roomservice.lk.

Palmyrah: You will be left licking your fingers at this Sri Lankan restaurant where the hoppers are amazing, as is the garlic curry which is every bit as dangerous as it sounds. For a fancier bowl sample the local food at Curry Leaf (get the kottu roti). Palmyrah, 28 Galle Rd, Colombo 3; Curry Leaf, 2 Sir Chittampalam A Gardiner Mawatha.

Regina Margherita: The wood fired ovens at Regina Margherita sends out some of the most superior pies in the city. The recipe for affogato here comes from the Italian chef’s grandmother. 151 Park Road, 5 Colombo.

Loon Tao: This beach Asian restaurant with tables on the sand and wooden dance floor under the stars offers a yum Thai preparation of scuttle fish. 3/12 College Avenue , Mount Lavinia, +9411 2722723, http://www.loontao.com.

Lemon: Along with views of frangipani trees and cricket grounds, this swanky rooftop restaurant also offers food from all over the world, including Portuguese rice, roast lamb and dhansak-rice. 41 1/2, Maitland Crescent, Colombo, +9411 2682122, http://www.lemon.lk.

Long Feng: If it’s Singaporean food you’re craving, head to the fancy Long Feng at Cinnamon Lakeside. Cheap Chinese food options include Flower Drum and Moon River.  Long Feng, 115, Sir Chittampalam A.Gardiner Mawatha Colombo 2;  Flower Drum, 26, Thurstan Road, Colombo 03, +9411 2574216; Moon River, 140 Thimbirigasyaya Road, Colombo - 5.

It’s not until you’ve left the wide swath of Nile, walked away from the pyramids of Giza, bid the Sphinx goodbye (she sends you off with a kiss) that you fully absorb the majesty of what you’ve witnessed. Back in Mumbai 24 hours, this Scouter is still reeling from the crazy-awesome-goodness that is Cairo. PS: Many thanks to Amit Damani and Sid Khanna for inputs.

Stay

This is the perfect time to visit Egypt – the weather is lovely (between 20 – 12 degrees Celsius), and the lack of tourists due to “protests” have made the country unusually inexpensive. Take advantage of cratered prices and indulge in digs at the Four Seasons Nile Plaza, located in the middle of the city (Tahrir Square is a ten minute walk) with rooms that open out right onto the water. If you’re a history buff, try the much prettier Oberoi Mena on the Giza bank, with jaw-dropping views of the pyramids, lush gardens and opulent bar that serves a mean cocktail and great spring rolls. It’s about an hour out of the city, though, and traffic in Cairo is worse than it is in Mumbai.

Four Seasons Nile Plaza, 1089 Corniche El Nil, Garden City , call +20 (2) 2791-7000, rooms currently start at $200; The Mena House Oberoi, Pyramids' Road, Giza, +20 (2) 3377 3222 , rooms start at $140.

Eat

Abou el Sid looks like an Egyptian restaurant out of a Disney movie – only it’s often frequented by locals, and wears its mosaic-tiles and ornate sheeshas without any irony. Located in the trendy Zamalek neighborhood, go here for a bottle of red Egyptian wine (surprisingly delish), colourful mezze platters and sausages stuffed with rice. Those willing to brave street food should head to Abu Tarek near the Cairo Museum and try koshari – along with being yum, it’s also vegetarian.

Italian food in Cairo? Really? If you must, try La Mezzaluna and Maison Thomas, also in Zamalek.

Abou el Sid 48, Giza Street, Apt. 83, Zamalek; Abu Tarek, 16 Maarouf, Sham Plion Street.

Drink

Located on the Nile, Sequoia is one of the trendiest, swankiest bars in Cairo, with plush white couches, gorgeous people and pumping music – think Aurus. The city also has its own Buddha Bar at the Sofitel, split level and a favorite amongst high-end revelers. For a more local feel, go to Horreya, the Egyptian version of Leopold or Mondy’s.

Sequoia, 53 Abou El Feda St., Zamalek, Cairo,  call +20 (2) 2735 0014; Buddha Bar, Sofitel El Gezirah, Giza.

Shop

There’s no way to sugarcoat this, ladies: the shopping in Cairo is mostly junk. You’ll find the same old silver jewelry and evil eyes, scarabs and amber, papyrus and flower oils – and no matter how much you bargain, you’ll probably get ripped off. Nonetheless, a walk through the maze of Khan el-Khalili market in Islamic Cairo (much cleaner and better organized than those in Mumbai) is a lot of fun, and we did find some treasures, including a gorgeous old perfume bottle. Don’t leave without visiting Description Of Egypt, a unique little store that sells over 10,000 old photographs, books and lovingly restored memorabilia. We loved, for instance, a collection of silver medals from the military, tarnished to a lovely grey with blue and green stones.

Do

No photograph can prepare you for the pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx – spearing up against the bluest skies you’ve ever seen, these are mind-bendingly awesome. Do the rest of the history stuff (museums, temples, etc), but remember too to walk around Tahrir Square: the protests have largely dissipated, leaving behind an atmosphere that is convivial, welcoming and most importantly, safe. This Scouter visited at different times – including late at night – and never felt threatened. And finally, grab a bottle of wine, have your hotel pack up a picnic, and take a felucca (sailboat) ride on the Nile. It may be touristy but like much of this city, it’ll make you smile. 

For all you un-jolly folk that want to escape the holiday-party madness of Mumbai this year, we’ve got a plan – come, meat the elves.

High on Travel along with the happy campers at Big Red Tent is organising an overnight barbeque festival on Christmas eve, at a lake-side, fully equipped camping ground a couple of hours from Mumbai, off the Mumbai-Pune expressway. Here you’ll find barbeque experts, pitched tents and yes, proper loos.

All Grills Attached

Guided by not just three but five wise men including Chef Anish Rai, Corporate Chef of the Barbeque Nation chain and his team of four, you’ll begin with marinating veggies, paneer and meats and graduate to not only grilling them but also learning about the different aspects of barbeque, from gauging the amount of charcoal required to achieving the best texture for your Chicken teriyaki, paneer tikka and mutton steak (this apparently goes best with mushroom rosemary sauce, which will also be available at the site).

And if despite the expert guidance you end up burning your food, there’s always salad and dips for you to nosh on.

Silent Night?

Other activities will include hanging out around a big bonfire and crashing in pre-pitched tents big enough to fit Santa in, tricked out with sleeping bags, inflatable pillows and camping mattresses. If you’re feeling particularly enthusiastic, you can even take a trek around the area the next morning.

The food and equipment will be provided on site, so all you have to bring along is your overnight change and a bottle (or six) of your favorite wine. Santa hats are optional, but hey, come on, it’s Christmas.

Getting there: Visit http://www.highontravel.com/bbq-fest-details/ for details and to book or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , Rs 3,500 per adult and Rs 1,500 for kids.

Let someone else paint the town red this month. Take your palette and set off instead for Serenity, a work-in-progress eco villa community in Mahagaon, 120 kilometres from Mumbai. Here, artists from around the world will be participating in a three-week Art in Nature residency program starting November 19. On the weekends, you can go up to the green valley and visit, participate in workshops and even stay the night. (S)lumber party!

What the Artists Will Do

Artist and curator Shilpa Joglekar has picked a bunch of artists from around the world - Tomasz Domanski (Poland), Urs Tewllmann (Switzerland), Ryszard Litwiniuk (Canada) Myriam du Manoir (France), Prashant Jogdand and Raman Adone (India) – who will bunk together and build sustainable art works from locally sourced materials like bamboo, stone and soil. These structures will go on to be permanent fixtures at Serenity, green foot prints left behind by the artists and conservation reminders for guests.     

What You Will Do

Feeling left out? You can pile on too, for weekend workshops on clay modelling, painting and sculpting taught by abovementioned artists. Meanwhile, they’ll put you up in fun eco-chic tents and feed you locally prepared food. I’ll have one part of art, please.

Getting there: Art camp at Serenity Villas, to book call 9820110539 or visit www.serenityvillas.in, Rs 6,000 for a workshop including one night stay and three meals.

Bumpy rides in sunny yellow taxis, pineapple pastries from Flury’s for breakfast, civilised screwdrivers and chips at Tolly, pandals strung with a thousand fairy lights: this Scouter caught the tail end of Pujo in Kolkata, when the city shakes off its year-round torpor and is at its dazzling, ripest best. Notes from a weekend in the City of Joy.

Special thanks to Ashok and Bharti Haralalka for their time, hospitality and many, many drinks.

Eat

Despite multiple trips and much gluttony, we’ve barely managed to skim the surface of the culinary cauldron that is Kolkata. These restaurants however, are good places to start if you’re visiting the city: Bhojohari Manna, with its multiple branches and austere vibe, for authentic Bengali food (get luchi, aloo dum, posto, ilesh, chola daal and Rajbhog); Zishaan for kathi rolls; Girish Chandra Dey and Nakuri Nandi for fresh gud (jaggery) sandesh and Floriana at Russell street for a tub of Naturelle Nolen Gud ice cream. Also super delish is hand-churned Cappuccino Crunch ice cream available at the Alipore branch of the legendary Kookie Jar - remember to grab a sinful mocha biscuit and chocolate boats while you’re there.  Be still, my eating heart.

Other favourites: Flury’s for puffs, above mentioned pineapple pastries and old world charm; Fire & Ice for thin crust pizza; Chinese at Red Hot Chilli Pepper and Zen; Bistro By The Park for iPad menus.

Bhojohori Manna, Plot No. X, Block EP & GP, Sector 5, Salt Lake City, call 03340011211; Zishaan, near Park Circus Tram Depot, Sayed Amir Ali Ave, Circus Avenue, call 03366343397; Girish Chandra Dey, Ramdulal Sircar Street, Shyambazar, call 03322410048; Floriana, 13D, Russel Street, opposite Bengal Club, call 03322293531; Kookie Jar, Enclave No. 17, Belvedere Road, Alipore, call 03324490863.

Still hungry? Find more Kolkata cuisine recommendations here.

Shop

Wheels of Fortune

Make keg room for more beer in your inbox as we bring news of another Oktoberfest party. This one’s on a bus going from Mumbai to Pune’s Doolally micro-brewery (and back) where the journey will count as much as the destination. Bond voyage?

The idea, organiser Regan Rodricks of Blue Bulb tells us, is to get Mumbai’s beer lovers to visit this brewery and ensure they don’t have to drive back to the city drunk. The Beer Wagen or “party bus” leaves Mumbai on October 15 and 16 with various pick up points across the city based on its passengers’ addresses. So you can either opt for a day trip (Rs 1,200 including bus ride and Rs 1,000 cover charge) or spend the night at Fortune Inn, a partner hotel that’s giving passengers special rates with shuttle service to Doolally.