bpb Review: Leo’s Boulangerie
Monday, 12 March 2012 18:24

You’re walking up and down Colaba Causeway looking for Scholar’s School or Henry Road because these landmarks will lead to the newest cheesecake in town. You probably won’t find either of them, but that’s okay because sweet Mr Rajkumar will volunteer to meet you at the Nike store and walk you into a leafy lane that leads to Leo’s Boulangerie. That’s how we got here, to the neighbourhood’s new bakery and patisserie owned by one of the partners who runs Leopold Cafe, just a few doors down.

Off the Puff

We arrived at the sliver-sized space (there’s no signboard yet) to find that the staff behind the counter was all grins, including a big crocodile crafted out of bread. “Don’t worry about him,” said Rajkumar, pointing to the joint’s tag line: he’s ‘born in the bakery and raised in the oven’. Razor sharp, indeed.

The sly croc overlooks shelves laden with bread loaves and cookies, and showcases that display cakes and pastries.  There’s no seating here so you’ll have to get your parcel to go. Ours included: Leo’s cheesecake, vodka green chilli mousse cake and butter cookies. The choice of savouries is slim with Candies-like rolls and puffs, and focaccia that reminds you of Theobroma’s self-service baskets. From this we picked the chicken croissant and sun dried tomato-cheese focaccia. The croissant, which should have been softer and flakier, came with a stingy filling of masala chicken that was not worth analysing. The focaccia, topped with an angry red coat of chillies, cheese and sundried tomato fared much better, but it’s still not a loaf we’d crave a week later.  

See Biscuit

Soothing our palates after this fiery pick was the Leo’s Cake, a yum dense and creamy baked cheesecake that needed to be supported by a crumblier foundation. The vodka chilli mousse cake requires some taste bud acclimatisation, and once you get used to it, you’ll realise that it’s too heavy on the chilli with almost no trace of vodka.  The unassuming butter cookies are rich yet light, the kitchen equivalent of fashion’s casual chic. These fared the best on our list so don’t leave without a box. They also do pista-almond, chocolate chip and oatmeal varieties. Other dessert options here include tarts, pies, muffins, cupcakes that don’t look great, nine types of brownies and a carrot marzipan cake that we’re going back for.

On the whole, our experience at Leo’s was strictly okay, which made us wonder if the place will be able to re-direct the walk-ins from Theobroma next door. Maybe once Leo's kitchen finds its feet or its crocodile finds yours.

Getting there: Leo’s Boulangerie, Henry Road, Colaba Causeway, in the lane opposite Cottage Industries, call 9821922010 or visit http://www.leosboulangerie.com, Rs 400 for a meal for two.


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