A Wolfgang with a Bang

As we drove to the opening party of Amadeus, the city’s brand new Mediterranean restaurant, we were reminded of these peals of laughter - high pitched and ear-piercing, emitted by an on-screen Mozart in the Academy Award-winning film Amadeus. What amuses his bouche so, we wondered. And what would amuse ours at chef Farrokh Khambata (the man behind pan-Asian restaurant Joss’s) latest venture? We were told a certain Gambas al Pil Pil would be particularly entertaining.

With a Sip in Our Step

Housed at the NCPA, Nariman Point, we found that the 6,000 square feet space (formerly Sidewok ) is panelled in wood and hung with black and white pictures of performers like Zubin Mehta and Zakir Hussain. While the dining section is quite plain, the lounge area is jazzed up with a stage (for weekend live acts) and a bar made cool with Dali-inspired melted bottles. It is here that we went through refreshing pomegranate bellinis and a displeasing whisky and green apple concoction, too puckerish for our liking.

Starting Out

bpb loves the sushi and Thai curry at Joss, so we were expecting a great deal from the Spanish food that had begun to circulate around the room. Non vegetarian appetisers were notches about herbivorous offerings of unremarkable tangy potatoes and mushroom caps with goat cheese. The exception was delicious bunches of corn topped with green chimichurri parsley sauce and a lemony zing.

Carnivores should skip Turkish kebab platters for supremely soft lamb meat balls that fell apart in our mouths, leaving trails of sherry and black truffle. Also fun with drinks are Cocas, flat bread with toppings of Serrano ham and ash chevre. Our favourites though, were seafood treats: Gambas al Pil Pila, superbly spiced, garlicky prawns and the ahi tuna served cold in pretty blue-tinted glasses, drizzled with mandarin orange and a base of beer–monsoon in a glass.

Nice Rack

Mains and dessert were laid out in an al fresco area like a buffet, including tame vegetarian paella and its fierce non-vegetarian counterpart, studded with almost every kind of meat. Switch plates, please. And while we recommend super silky, buttery ravioli with pine nuts and ricotta, we wouldn’t go back for forgettable baked zucchini- mozzarella in tomato sauce. Also nice is dark and peppery lamb rack. Well done!

Tart!

Endings for the night were happy indeed, especially tarte tain of caramelised golden apples served with cinnamon and hazelnut ice cream, tiramisu that’s high on kahlua and chocolate soufflé, a Joss favourite.

On a cab ride home with two fun feature writers, the decision to return to Amedius’ chamber was unanimous – for the culinary compositions, to see if the drinks will flow as well, and check if the staff will be as engaging as they were on opening night. Then, we’ll ask Mr Khambatta to take a bow.

Getting there: Amadeus, The National Center of Performing Arts (NCPA), NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, call 22824242, expected to be Rs 1,500 per head, opens to the public on July 7.