It was perfect, the baked Camembert, with a creamy, giving heart that lay under glistening skin, its texture tensile, surface flaking. Accompanied by thick slices of toast and thin strands of bell pepper, cradled on a bed of greens and topped with succulent grilled vegetables, this is perhaps the sexiest version of bread and cheese in city limits, and one of the many reasons to go back to Two One Two, Worli’s brand new Italian restaurant named after 212 degrees fahrenheit, the boiling point of water.

The Plate Show

Opened by a handful of partners including Ketan Kadam of Fire ‘N’ Ice, Two One Two now occupies what used to previously be Magick, with woody interiors that retain a generic feel. There are high back chairs and a small waterfall, plush couches with contrasting cushions, lots and lots (and lots) of wood panelling. But unlike with the last occupant, the design at Two One Two works well, serving as a quiet canvas for the flamboyant dishes. Here, all eye candy appears on the plate.

Let’s Tart At the Very Beginning

Our meal, much too decadent for a mere weekday lunch, began with the superlative baked Camembert as well as seriously juicy chicken skewers accompanied by tahini and couscous. This dish is pure light, and a fun contrast to the mushroom cappuccino soup that we had next, made dark and stormy by a riff of truffle oil.

The Life of Pie

It may look tempting, but get the Quattro Formaggio pizza only if you really, really, really like your cheese. Otherwise, opt for Pizza Verdure, with a thin, powdery base and just the right amount of grilled vegetables to brighten up the pie without making you feel like you’re eating a salad. The veggie lasagne is too much noodle and not enough sauce, but the lamb chops are just right - tender, delish and worth picking time and again from a menu of many good dishes. Warning: some of the portions here are huge, and even wastrels like us couldn’t help but box up our pizza for later, so order accordingly.

For dessert, from a still unwritten menu we chose piquant raspberry cheesecake and airy panna cotta, along with bitter, appealingly cake-y chocolate fondant. The latter was the best, and lingers in our memory even as we write this review late into the night, our stomach’s full from wine and leftover pizza, which tastes pretty good cold.

Getting there: Two One Two Bar and Grill, 12 A, Hornby Vellard Estate, on the same road as Nehru Centre, Worli, call 9920838529 / 24901994, Rs 2,000 for a meal for two without alcohol.

bpb reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for its own meals.