There are many ways to welcome the summer in Mumbai. Launching a terrace restaurant definitely isn’t one of them. Yet, Svenska Design Hotel at Andheri has picked March to open Soul, their new Indian rooftop resto-bar where the only respite is that operations begin post sunset. That and a lemonade cooler with chips of ice and slivers of ginger. Two please!
We visited on a Thursday night to find a pretty terrace lined with fairy lights, but overhead bulbs so dim that the menu is almost illegible. Squinting revealed that the short cocktail list was basically the same three drinks in the mocktail section with vodka, and of the trio, the Sharabi Nariyal wasn’t available. Not left with much choice, we got the Shikanjvi, abovementioned lemonade drink, super refreshing and spiked with chat masala and a Pataka Mary, a crackling blend of vodka and guava juice with tobasco and Worcestershire sauce.
The drinks were great, their flow interrupted by disappointing mutton nalli kebabs that were tough and rubbery, contrary to the tenderly cooked lamb that we were looking forward to. The soft murg malai kebabs on the other hand, were deliciously creamy and when teamed with roti and cocktails, can make for a nice mini meal. Herbivores will have to make do with the usual tandoori aloo and paneer tikka for appetisers.
For mains, we teamed the murgh khurchan with classic black dal and a basket of naans. We didn’t quite enjoy the tangy chicken khurchan which came with an overwhelming taste of capsicum. The thick, creamy dal makhani however, was delish but it’s the soft naans glazed with butter that deserve a special mention.
We Sheekh Your Blessing
On the whole, Soul is pricey and serves nothing that will blow your mind. However, we did find that a smiling waiter, good service and bright spots at the bar can go a long way in making you forget (and forgive) a few faults.
Getting there: Soul, Svenska Design Hotel, Oberoi Complex, SAB TV lane, 44310000, Rs 2,250 for a meal for two with one drink each.
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.
|< Prev||Next >|