Defence Colony

In our heads, the prospect of reviewing Red Ant seemed far more exciting than it should have, namely because its moniker instantly reminded us of Cheeni Chor – a feisty little ant driven to rebellion after discovering a fridge full of raspberry jam and rosogollas (see Ranjit Lal’s The Caterpillar Who Went On a Diet and Other Stories.) Imaginative entomology aside, the new Bandra bar comes from a lineage of eateries (Global Fusion and China Gate) that don’t disappoint; there’s no reason Red Ant should. 

Rants in Your Pants

In reality, a circuitous path lead to a place that wasn’t as sweet or cool as Cheeni Chor’s refrigerator. In fact, the first impression of Red Ant is a little disorienting. None of the elements - red upholstered walls reminiscent of a Prague jazz club, menus with cartoon ants and corny quotes, house music, caricature-ish statues of music icons, chandeliers, waiters in fedoras, big screens playing Michael Jackson concerts – seem to blend together.

Much like the first cocktail we ordered: Viva (Rs 350), not off the menu but off the top of the bartender’s head. “A lemony-blue gin concoction with a layer of floating dark rum” turned out to be cloyingly sweet, a defect that no amount of back-and-forth trips to the bar could fix. Our Classic Martini faired much better, but the Manhattan (a rich combination of Jack Daniels, sweet and dry vermouth and Angostura bitters) was the clear winner.

Viva la Revolution

Round two of drinks were supported by a batch of yum appetisers and an equally delectable crew of Victoria’s Secret models on the big screen. “Much better than MJ,” a male friend said, digging into a platter of surprisingly light fried spinach and cheese triangles that could do with better arm candy; consider swapping bland mayo-like sauce for a chilli honey one, please. The woody, burnt garlic prawns reminded us of why the Red Ant team should stick to Asian food. The menu also features other starters like chicken wings and fish cakes; a handful of salads and sandwiches; three pastas and a couple of continental main course options.

Hill Top

The mains here are tasty and comforting, the way bar fare should be. Carnivores should go for Tarragon chicken glazed with red wine, served with a side of mash potatoes and dressed up bell peppers. Succulent Cajun spiced cottage cheese steak isn’t served with sauce, but never feels dry, well supported by balsamic mushrooms. But wait, no dessert? Cheeni Chor would not approve.

Once Bitten

There are many reasons to love a bar: super music, cheap drinks, great ambience. Red Ant appears to have none of these. At best, this is a peaceful weekday option (if they start playing jazz or rock) and a good weekend standby when Bonobo across the street gets too feral.

On our way down we discovered Dragon Fly, a quieter (and cuter) version of Red Ant with a circular bar and leafy glass smoking room, also now open. Perhaps that’s the kind of bug we’ll be catching next time around

Getting there: Red Ant, 3rd floor, Link Square Mall, Linking Road, opposite Bonobo, Bandra (W), call 26469006, Rs 2,000 per couple for dinner and drinks.

At Brown Paper Bag, we conduct reviews anonymously and pay for our own meals.