Review in rhyme: Outside Quesso in Andheri, you’ll see hands flailing about. / Wildly. /It’s the Italians, they’re reacting far from mildly. / They’ve just been told that their pasta will come without meat or wine. /Fine! / But would they like a lemon fizz?/ Yes please, kindly.

Review in reason: So, an all vegetarian Italian restaurant in Andheri. Also, no alcohol. We were wondering what strike three would be as we walked into Quesso, newly opened above yet another herbivorous eatery called Shreejee. Probably the fact that mocktails are named Oomph and Healthy Wealthy, and served out of a bar at the centre of this all-wood restaurant.

Ten minutes later we were drinking our words as we sipped the abovementioned cheesily baptized drinks, both mixed with fresh fruit and surprisingly pleasant tasting. These instantly put us in a cheerier mood, as we rattled off our order to the waiter with a tablet. The Fungi Crostini, turned up as bite-sized crunchy bread topped with chopped mushrooms tossed in olive oil. Des- Italian fare, but still tasty. Also nice was the creamy coleslaw it was served with.

For mains, we decided on a pizza and risotto. The Pizza Mediterranean featured chopped basil, capers, sundried tomatoes, olives, cheese and pickled artichokes on a thin and crispy base. Light and tasty. The spinach and basil-flavoured Florentina Risotto needed more spinach to balance out the overwhelming amount of cheese. Our meal finalé -d with the mango mousse that was way too sweet for our liking.

So as expected, not the most dolce end. But it’s a lot better than the scenario we’d imagined in our heads: a mocktail pitcher being knocked out of the waiter’s hand and on to us, thanks to those angry, gesticulating Italian hands. Scusi, please!

Getting there: 93-96, Link Plaza, above Shreejee's restaurant, Link Road Extension, next to Oshiwara Police Station, Andheri (W), 266349966, Rs 1,800 for two people.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.