Navigate the steep stairs leading up to Moshe’s, Bandra (this should absolutely not be tried in high heels or after consumption of multiple alcoholic beverages) and you’ll find a space that is partly familiar and partly surprising. A sloping wooden roof, warm lighting and ramble of plants outside tall windows invokes the same rustic feeling as the original space, a mood that’s woefully ruined by the shiny glass mosaic strip that runs across one glossy wall, an ugly lighthouse mural and cringingly generic furniture (we can swear we’ve seen those chairs at at least five other Bandra restaurants). Like a lunching lady said when she walked in yesterday afternoon, “Jesus Christ, this is so not Moshe!”

Towning Glory

The menu at this week-old outpost, however, doesn’t stray too far from the mother ship, featuring all the favorites along with a few new additions: creamy spinach, feta and white bean dip, served in a wide-lipped bowl and meant to be shared; pleasantly sweet and salty grilled pear crostini, piled prettily with goat cheese, olive tapenade and olive oil; apple salad. If your group is large enough, we suggest you get them all.

Chickening Out

Our nervous but earnest waiter also pointed out a burly new chicken steak sandwich, juicy and flavourful (we still prefer the chicken and jalapeno version, unfortunately served only at Moshe café); an unremarkable bagel topped with sun dried tomatoes, cottage cheese and olive tapenade; and a hearty leek and porcini risotto. The weather is too warm for this dish right now, but it would work perfectly on a cool December night, right before you head out for a holiday party. We were, however, disappointed by a debuting gnocchi dish, where the pleasantly firm potato dumplings are pan fried and then drowned in bland sauce; couscous with tarragon and mint is passable.

The most interesting additions to the menu, however, are those inspired by new regions like Asia. A dish of kubba or chicken dumplings is refreshingly different, starring slightly bland dumplings and fat, meaty mushrooms smothered in a funky dark sauce that tastes different with every bite, going from faintly sweet to overwhelmingly peppery. These are perfectly accompanied by lightly flavored rice and long, lovely strands of green beans, bathed in tangy dressing and made crunchy by a generous smattering of toasted walnuts. We also liked harissa marinated rawas and plan to go back for the Balinese prawn curry.

Dessert at Moshe’s is always superlative (there’s a new cream cheese brownie that chocolate lovers will enjoy), but we were most looking forward to trying dark chocolate ice cream with red wine sauce, unfortunately unavailable on the afternoon that we visited.

All Things Price

After our meal, a friend wondered at why Moshe’s has gotten so wildly popular - the kitchen here is comfortingly consistent, but hardly spectacular. We suspect that the answer, to a large extent, is the price: in South Bombay, Moshe’s is amongst the most affordable restaurants of its kind. But that’s not necessarily true of Bandra where there are a lot more middle-range options, so the eatery will have to give patrons a compelling reason to come back. But for now, everyone’s curious about the towning glory shacking up on the other side of the Sea Link, so remember to make a reservation before you visit.

Getting there: Moshe’s, 133 Hill Road, above Nature’s Basket, Bandra (W), call 26425555, approximately Rs 700 per head.

At Brown Paper Bag, we conduct reviews anonymously and pay for our own meals.