To ensure a pleasurable experience, Malt & Pepper - newest offering by Thomas Cherian of the widely beloved Ghetto – has to be done just right, so listen up: First, skip the over-lit, charmless downstairs section for the first floor space, with its gilt-painted sloping roof, wide wooden beams, moody art and warm lanterns.

Don’t Mix Your Drinks

Second, no matter how tempting they may seem, stay away from the cocktails – they are terrible, especially a “special” Mojito, a wine glass half-filled with coconut water, rum, a few forlorn slices of lime and two mint leaves that looked suspiciously like lettuce. We had to send it back, and we’re rarely the type to turn away alcohol. Also woefully unpalatable is sangria, heavy on the port wine and tequila but completely devoid of fruit; Spider’s Bite, made from jalapeño infused vodka and lime juice is better, albeit a small respite: it comes in a shot glass “but must be sipped”, explained our waiter – we suggest you get done with the spicy, puckerish concoction in a single gulp.

Here, like at the Ghetto, the best way is to drink what you drink and be specific: bpb recommends a large Caol Ila, dash of water, no ice. Those with smokier tastes should go with Laphroaig or pick from the nice list of other single malts on the menu (start at Rs 500 for a small), which they weren’t serving when we went but promise to have in stock later this week.

Finally, Something Solid

Lastly, order a bite. The food here is meaty and often creative, split into anytime bar snacks, specials and a lunch and dinner menu that features pastas, grills, etc. Chicken wings are tender and juicy, with perfectly flavored dipping sauce; also good are crisp onion rings. We enjoyed a mushroom burger, a burly mess of a sandwich with a huge, flavorful patty, ribbons of intensely caramalised onions and melted cheese, served the old-fashioned way with a cherry on the top. This comes in two sizes (we got the mini, but bigger appetites can explore a series of oversize sandwiches, more gimmick than gourmet) with a generous side of crisp fries and chunky, spicy sauce.

Pizza pot pie, with pizza crust doubling up as pie pastry for a filling of veggies and cheese, is less successful, reminding us of a concoction this Scouter’s well-intentioned but culinary-challenged mum whipped up one birthday. Not pretty.

Love Across the Malt Dessert

Making up for it was dessert, a dark, luscious brownie (think the kind down at Jazz By The Bay or the now-shut JATC) cut into squares and served with white chocolate and whiskey fondue. Also promising looked an apple and poached pear tart, which wasn’t available when we visited.

Malt and Pepper is only a couple of days old and still getting its bearings. Much of the menu isn’t available yet and the service is jittery. But wait a couple of weeks, and it has the potential to grown into a jazz-playing, whiskey-serving, after-work pub where you can chill out, chow down, kick back. It may not be the Ghetto superstar but as far as second acts go, this one’s worth a watch.

Getting there: 16, Marzban Road, near Sterling Cinema, call 22037357 or 22037358, Rs 2,000 for a meal for two, including one drink each.

bpb reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for its own meals.