bpb Review: Kolonial
Monday, 07 June 2010 23:20
bpb Review:
Kolonial

Even a casual meal, eaten in pajamas in front of the telly, deserves better than the Chinese from Kolonial.   

Even the most casual dinner at home, eaten in pajamas in front of the telly, deserves better than take-out from Kolonial. A new offering by the Thadani brothers (they launched Cool Chef recently), this Chinese restaurant is currently delivery-only, but plans to open up its 4,000 square feet restaurant space soon.

Kolonial Calling

Our encounter with Kolonial began pleasantly enough, with a telecon in which a sweet gentleman named Peter agreed to deliver all the way from Worli to Marine Drive, as long as we paid the cab fare. His chirpy conversation kept us from nodding off as we perused the banal menu, featuring all the usual Indian Chinese suspects – sweet corn soup, fried wontons, hakka noodles.

We searched desperately for a bright spot, something we hadn’t seen before, but finally went with spring rolls and Kung Pao potatoes, satay chicken and chilli paneer, Schezuan noodles and fried rice.

Yawn.

Upon arrival, though, the slender and still-crispy spring rolls jolted us awake. Paired with the accompanying sweet and spicy sauce, these were far superior to the overtly-oily, tasteless version at Chopsticks.

Kake Walk

The rest of the food, however, was just as we feared: a mis-spiced, mis-cooked meal from a misspelled restaurant.  The chicken was ho-hum, the chilli paneer disappointingly chewy, the fried rice nondescript, the potatoes adequately sauced but overtly spicy. The whole meal, actually, was guaranteed to clear out our sinuses, and the only dish that benefited from the excessive fieriness was the Schezuan noodles, where the chili was complimented by liberal amounts of ginger. Smoky and flavorful, these noodles are good enough to eat on their own with only a cold beer to wash them down.

Post Kolonial Complex

And that was it. In the duration of one Scrubs episode, we had unpacked, eaten and dismissed our Kolonial meal. Even the corner Chinese food guy holds our attention for longer than that.

Getting there: Thadani House, 329/A Worli Village, call 32231199 for delivery, Rs 600 for a meal for two.

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