Meat Me in the Back

If you love your meats and cheeses you're probably a regular at one of the many deli counters in the city. In fact, it’s been a long relationship now. I’ll have the usual, you find yourself saying. Looking to get some action on the side? Cheat on your meat at Freeman And Baker, a new Juhu deli where rare emu steak, rabbit and Japanese quail can lure, and quiche can comfort. The fact that owner Vishal Mehra likes PG Wodehouse – you’ll hear several references in conversations –is just the cherry on top.

What’s in Store

bpb was the first to break the story on Freeman And Baker, a UK chain of delis that former corporate Mehra brought to Mumbai – ask for the inspirational story with your sandwich – where in addition to Deli loot, you can eat family-made savouries and build your own sandwich. At the remarkable meat counter you’ll find honeyed, spiced and fat-free ham, turkey, Vietnamese chicken, Chilean bass and crab in addition to the abovementioned exotic meats, as well as a few mock versions for vegetarians.  Less impressive is the cheese list not because of its size, but the ubiquity of the goudas and gruyeres that feature on it. There are also Nature’s Basket-esque shelves with branded chocolate and candy; syrups and mayo; crackers and homemade spreads.

Brie, Anyone?

We visited last evening on Janmashtami, navigating human pyramids and the traffic jams they caused to get to the bread. At the Juhu space we met the wise Manjul, whose background in importing deli products was evident in the suggestions she offered. Since they were out of most ready sandwiches, we got the lone roasted veggie one off the shelf and built our own with focaccia, gruyere, honey glazed ham and a side of Dijon mustard. Our order also featured two quiche pies.

We were seated in an elevated mini dining section done up with a picket fence and wooden tables dressed in florals, as well as a refrigerator where you can help yourself to orange juice on the house. We half expected one of the Desperate Housewives to show up with refreshments. Instead we had to settle for the waiter who bought quiche.

Transformations

The corn-spinach pie was rich but light, perfectly baked with a flaky crust.  The meaty version with bits of sausages was yum too, but a cold base and uneven heating made it less enjoyable. While the D-I-Y honey glazed sandwich was sweet in all the right places, the bread felt a little dry (a diner friend did mention that the deli lacks that smell of fresh bread). The roasted veggie  version that looked limp on the shelf turned out to be the culinary equivalent of Ugly Duckling, blossoming into a handsome sandwich when grilled, bursting with fragrant veggies and mushrooms. Festive specials include kheema pav and chicken farcha. Tiny cups of a-bit-too- glutinous Oreo cheese cake and a divine tiramisu were on the house.

Whether you visit for free coffee and Wi-fi, organic udon noodles and Matterhorn fondue or to experiment with a slice of Emu, Freeman And Baker  is the new meatheart you should court.

Getting there: Freeman And Baker, shop no 5, Sagarika CHS, opposite Palm Grove Hotel, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, call 26131522, Rs 450 for two.

bpb pays for its own meals.