bpb Review: Ellipsis
Sunday, 08 April 2012 22:33


If Colaba’s luxe new restaurant and bar Ellipsis is meant to be an unfinished thought, then inside its head we must take you. In the right hemisphere you’ll find imaginative sauces and elderflower cocktails, but also crazy numbers (read sky-high prices) that seem to have slid over from the logical side of the brain. Yes, Rs 6,000 for a skinny meal for two doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

Replacing Villa 39, Ellipsis, which serves “modern American” food is a combined effort by CEO Rohan Talwar, restaurateur Ranbir Batra, the Voltaggio brothers (of Top Chef Fame) and internationally renowned interior designer Thomas Schoos. The split-level champagne hued space is decked with opulent art, interesting chair backs and unfortunately those tired-and-tested light bulb bunches strung from long black wires. How many light bulbs does it take to change a trend? When we visited this past Saturday it was quiet and dim, but we imagine the space should get buzzier as the bar spills over and the open chef’s table gets occupied in the weekends to come.

Ponzu Scheme

What’s fun about Ellipsis is that the food menu is a work in progress, one that changes daily. There’s a small cocktail (start at Rs 1,000) and shots section, as well as an extensive wine list. We started with the Riddler and Ok, Go!, both of which were served in too-small glasses. If you like fruity get the former, a heat-resistant mix of blackberry, grapefruit, gin and champagne that comes wearing a flower. The second is a darker, sexier potion of cognac, scotch and elderflower, with adamant hints of cardamom. The beer selection (starts at Rs 600) includes hard-to-find pints like Dos Equis, Kirin Ichiban and Cusquena.

Over in the food department there’s little for herbivores, with a focus on red meat and seafood including yellowtail, lobster and New Zealand rack of lamb. While digging into the bread basket served with super spreads – goat cheese butter, spicy mayo and honey miso – we placed our order. First at the table were the sliders (Rs 700), a tray of three yum beef, chicken and cheese mini burgers. The chicken (simple, crispy batter fried patty with salad) and beef (medium rare, minced and lightly seasoned) came in soft buns good enough to eat sans filling. Next we got the yellowtail in ponzu sauce (Rs 1,400), a long plate of delicately sliced hiramasa bathed in fresh citrus juice with notes of jalapeno and served with orange segments. Sun set on a plate! Another good option is the barbecue pork ribs and if you’re feeling rich, Australian tenderloin (Rs 3,400).

The mac and cheese with truffle (Rs 900) however, did not fare as well as the others - a big bland dish of rubbery pasta that came with an unpleasant, wheatish taste that even a drizzle of truffle oil couldn't redeem.

Dot Net

Because our dinner ended with a tasty but we’ve-had-better block of tiramisu, we placed one final order for a Corpse Reviver. The lethal cointreau, gin and lemon shot laced with absinthe and nostalgia from a New York night out, was just the kick we needed before heading to our next stop- Pentagram live at Blue Frog.

Getting there: Ellipsis, B-1 Amarchand Mansion, Madam Cama Road, where Villa 39 used to be, Colaba, call 66213333, Rs 6,500 for a meal for two with drinks, open for dinner only.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

 

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Comments (12)
Friday, 04 May 2012 08:29
Raghav, BPB responds to PR invites, but their full reviews always come later and anonymously. It's easy to sit in San Francisco and pas comments, isn't it? Place might be good but is horribly overpriced. Bar will run for 6 months, restaurant will be empty in 3. Might make it for the 2012 high season, but that's about it. All that NITCO money just pissed away....oh well.
Wednesday, 18 April 2012 21:45
how am i poking holes in the review? and why would i do that if i were friends with the owners?

i think its only fair to ask them how they just happened to walk in and have a meal in a place before it was officially open?

whats wrong in that. if they say they did, its cool but just seems like it was a PR invite.
Sunday, 15 April 2012 22:03
Raghav,

Why the f should they bother? They have credibility--you, on the other hand, are a friend of the owners and trying desperately to poke holes in this review. Move along now.
Friday, 13 April 2012 15:36
why not scan and attach them somewhere here with numbers blacked out?
Thursday, 12 April 2012 03:46
Sanjeet,

We have credit card statements and bills stating that we dined at Ellipsis on Saturday, April 7, 2012. We can fax/email over a copy to you if you'd like.

Cheers!
Thursday, 12 April 2012 01:02
Restaurants have become criminally expensive in Bombay. But still this make s me want to try the yellowtail. Merci.
Wednesday, 11 April 2012 16:35
i think it is quite obvious the review is not really authentic. the restaurant only opened on the 10th. and no one apart from the ones invited could get there earlier. but good attempt nonetheless
Wednesday, 11 April 2012 13:38
$100 to $150 is about the normal price one would pay for a decent meal incl a decent wine at a joint like this, but i find the prices of straight liquor ridiculous, it should be around $ 5 to 6 tops for a single for most decent brands but here a small is priced at Rs 750 to 900 and it does spoil the party, the happy hours at the 'wink' for innercircle member's is an absolute killer, not only are the drinks well priced but 1 on 1 free and the snacks are too good, cheers!
Tuesday, 10 April 2012 16:23
according to Mumbai Boss, the restaurant is slated to open for Dinner on the 10th which is today. you guys just happened to pass by and found it open?

really? does this happen a lot?
Monday, 09 April 2012 23:01
Hi Sanjeet, the restaurant was accepting walk-ins over the weekend. Since we conducted the review anonymously, it means that they were open to the public. Also, all the dishes on the menu were available and the place was fully operational.
Monday, 09 April 2012 22:22
Is it standard practice for you all at BPB to review a restaurant that isn't open? FYI, no self-respecting food reviewing source reviews a restaurant that hasn't opened to the public.
Monday, 09 April 2012 14:00
How very right brain of you - going inside a restaurant's head like that :)

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