If Colaba’s luxe new restaurant and bar Ellipsis is meant to be an unfinished thought, then inside its head we must take you. In the right hemisphere you’ll find imaginative sauces and elderflower cocktails, but also crazy numbers (read sky-high prices) that seem to have slid over from the logical side of the brain. Yes, Rs 6,000 for a skinny meal for two doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
Replacing Villa 39, Ellipsis, which serves “modern American” food is a combined effort by CEO Rohan Talwar, restaurateur Ranbir Batra, the Voltaggio brothers (of Top Chef Fame) and internationally renowned interior designer Thomas Schoos. The split-level champagne hued space is decked with opulent art, interesting chair backs and unfortunately those tired-and-tested light bulb bunches strung from long black wires. How many light bulbs does it take to change a trend? When we visited this past Saturday it was quiet and dim, but we imagine the space should get buzzier as the bar spills over and the open chef’s table gets occupied in the weekends to come.
What’s fun about Ellipsis is that the food menu is a work in progress, one that changes daily. There’s a small cocktail (start at Rs 1,000) and shots section, as well as an extensive wine list. We started with the Riddler and Ok, Go!, both of which were served in too-small glasses. If you like fruity get the former, a heat-resistant mix of blackberry, grapefruit, gin and champagne that comes wearing a flower. The second is a darker, sexier potion of cognac, scotch and elderflower, with adamant hints of cardamom. The beer selection (starts at Rs 600) includes hard-to-find pints like Dos Equis, Kirin Ichiban and Cusquena.
Over in the food department there’s little for herbivores, with a focus on red meat and seafood including yellowtail, lobster and New Zealand rack of lamb. While digging into the bread basket served with super spreads – goat cheese butter, spicy mayo and honey miso – we placed our order. First at the table were the sliders (Rs 700), a tray of three yum beef, chicken and cheese mini burgers. The chicken (simple, crispy batter fried patty with salad) and beef (medium rare, minced and lightly seasoned) came in soft buns good enough to eat sans filling. Next we got the yellowtail in ponzu sauce (Rs 1,400), a long plate of delicately sliced hiramasa bathed in fresh citrus juice with notes of jalapeno and served with orange segments. Sun set on a plate! Another good option is the barbecue pork ribs and if you’re feeling rich, Australian tenderloin (Rs 3,400).
The mac and cheese with truffle (Rs 900) however, did not fare as well as the others - a big bland dish of rubbery pasta that came with an unpleasant, wheatish taste that even a drizzle of truffle oil couldn't redeem.
Because our dinner ended with a tasty but we’ve-had-better block of tiramisu, we placed one final order for a Corpse Reviver. The lethal cointreau, gin and lemon shot laced with absinthe and nostalgia from a New York night out, was just the kick we needed before heading to our next stop- Pentagram live at Blue Frog.
Getting there: Ellipsis, B-1 Amarchand Mansion, Madam Cama Road, where Villa 39 used to be, Colaba, call 66213333, Rs 6,500 for a meal for two with drinks, open for dinner only.
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.
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