When we first heard the name ‘Canvas’ we thought of huge, unfurling sails, of blank spaces open to possibilities, of works of art, of camping tents in the misty gloaming. What we didn’t imagine was a red-and-black uber-urban room that swaps out windows for psychedelic screens, where tables and ceilings glow yellow and velvety, crimson walls undulate like stage curtains at a Vegas showroom. But these are the elements that dominate Canvas, the new restaurant/lounge/terrace grill/cigar room (phew!) in Lower Parel, which opened its doors this past weekend.

Surprise Package

Canvas is sprawled over a huge split level space on the fourth floor of Palladium, Phoenix Mills, and the long walk from entrance to table (as well as the deathly quiet – we were the only diners present on the Monday night we visited) gave us plenty of time to recalibrate our expectations. By the time we were seated, the design had begun to make a little more sense – Canvas and the Comedy Store downstairs share the same promoters, and perhaps they are trying to keep the décor similar.

Because the clubby atmosphere called for drinking (as if we need an excuse) we began our night with a batch of delish cocktails, nicely boozy and not too sweet. Try the ginger and litchi martini, potent but frighteningly easy to drink, and burnt lemon and vanilla Margherita, which tastes best frozen and devoid of salt. These fared much better than the lackluster bread basket, which came after multiple inquiries by us and comprised of unsalted butter and rubbery soft rolls that seemed like they had been in the microwave for too long.

Around the World

The menu at Canvas is another curious case, featuring sushi and parathas, risotto and Thai curry. We started with a vegetarian sushi platter – inauthentic but enjoyable, the rice sticky, the rolls spicy – and Goat Cheese Quenelle, pan-seared cheese perched atop thick rings of caramelized apple and shredded spinach. Creamy, salty, sweet, crunchy, this is a fun, creative dish that nonetheless begins to lose its novelty after a couple of bites. Get it to share.

For mains we ordered grilled lemon chicken, leek risotto and tiger prawns, which were pink and black and plump. Tender and big enough to feed two, the chicken was intensely lemony with hints of sweetness, a flavor that was echoed in the creamy, salty leek risotto that came topped with whole cloves of sweet garlic. The latter was passable but not spectacular, a dish you could find at any a corner Italian restaurant.

Sweet Nothings

The chefs at Canvas seem to have a enduring sweet tooth, persistently adding sugary notes to usually savory dishes using apples and juniper and even garlic. We therefore had great expectations from the dessert. Hot soufflé, our first choice, was unfortunately unavailable, so we went with Belgian chocolate mousse cake (should have been richer and more bitter) served with raspberry sorbet (perfectly flavored).

Maybe it was the weird décor (the terrace grill, which overlooks the main courtyard at Phoenix Mills and is fitted with low lighting and black couches, is much nicer); the depressing lack of people; the inconsistent service that went from being cloyingly attentive to negligent and back; the incoherent menu that was satisfactory but never awesome; the high prices; but Canvas failed to excite us. It has many elements in place, but at almost Rs 2,000 a pop, that’s hardly enough.

Getting there: Canvas, Palladium at Phoenix Mills, Senapati Bapat Marg, Rs 3,700 for two including a cocktail.

bpb conducts all reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.