House Fly

Bandra has a new cottage industry, with old bungalows serving as venues for eateries, bars, spas and even dive stores. The latest addition is Bungalow 9, a pretty multi-cuisine restaurant and bar housed in a sprawling old wooden mansion that once was a tobacco factory, and later a venue for marriages. Do you take this manor?

Step Inn, Won’t You

Barely a week old, Bungalow 9’s space (seats about 150) is split into a leafy courtyard, rustic indoor dining area, tavern style bar and a private party room complete with high beams, wooden balcony and sloping roof.  Given the weather and willingness of the moon, we picked a dimly lit outdoor table, shaded with banana leaves, buzzing with barely any mosquitoes and set with a vast, 15 page bar menu. Comfortably rum.

We wanted to start with the Long Breakfast, a cocktail made with marmalade, but figured it was too ‘morning’ for dinner. So we went instead with Passion Drop, a potent and delicious mix of gin, passion fruit, peach liqueur, sparkling wine and lemon grass; a Margarita that packed a big flavour but lacked any ice; and an apple-vanilla-vodka potion that would have done better without the vanilla essence. Overall, a fun selection of cocktails to choose from.

Love and Lungs

It’s not surprising that Bungalow 9 tries to bring together so many different cuisines in one kitchen, given the space’s history with matchmaking. But like most marriages, the dishes - cooked up by former Athena chef - are a mixed bag. We loved the bread basket dip that nicely mixes butter and sundried tomatoes, but couldn’t get behind sushi featuring chicken, tomato, and pineapple. If you must, get Hella Hot sushi which comes with cream cheese, jalapeno, carrots and on special request, avocado. It’s pretty and surprisingly delish. Non vegetarians should dodge Spit Roasted Chicken with Tzatziki (dry meat, yum dip) and go instead with crispy fried calamari. Other interesting but diverse food categories like grills, noodles, wood fired pizza and pastas makes ordering quite confusing, but ask for Rishikesh and he will graciously guide you through the  menu.

He suggested we get the pizza with caramalised onion, olives, peppers and feta. Thin, crispy, light and not overwhelmingly cheesy, this is perfect, as is spicy and aromatic Sri Lankan yellow curry served with a tiny portion of jasmine rice, the highlight of our meal.

Sorbet National Park

The dessert list is super innovative, featuring Bellini cheesecake, mango and coconut panna cotta and a section of handmade ice creams including basil and Cointreau sorbets. We ended up pitting elegantly flavoured champagne sorbet against an excessive Grand Marnier chocolate volcano, a crusty outside manning a liquid chocolate centre with notes of orange. Best compliments!

Heart is Where the Home Is

At the end of the meal, we enjoyed many different elements of Bungalow 9 – (mostly) good food, interesting drinks, creative desserts – but what really got our hearts was the space the restaurant is in.

Yes ladies and gentlemen, the house always wins.

Getting there:  9, St John Baptist Road, ahead of Salt Water Cafe (towards Mount Mary Steps), Bandra (W), call 61179999 or view the Facebook page here, Rs 3,500 for a meal for two with alcohol.

bpb reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for its own meals.