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What’s in a name? A lot, especially if you’re using the moniker of an international fast food chain without having franchise rights. Misled by the sign board of Arby’s, Bandra’s newest snack joint, we went on Sunday evening expecting to grab one of their namesake’s famous roast beef burgers or get a Market Fresh sandwich to go. Instead, we found a mini cafe with a sneaky name, an earnest owner, Lebanese wraps and a 16-seater basement that has fire hazard written all over it. We’ll take one of your three outside tables, mosquitoes and everything, thanks.
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The menu at Arby’s features mostly Lebanese fare- mezze platters and wraps – along with salad, pizza, paninis and “gourmet” frankies. We started with some yum hummus - nutty, smooth and dusted with red chilli powder - served in a disposable, compartmentalised plate with fluffy pita pockets, a strange sweet-ish dip masquerading as hot sauce and suspicious-looking pickled veggies. We coupled this with an order of falafel bullets and made it a D-I-Y appetiser.
Our wraps, Sheesh Tawook and chicken Shawarma, looked a little malnourished compared to those packed-to-the-rafters ones we’re used to sinking our teeth into in Mumbai. Lacking flavour and life, these were edible but nothing to write home about. The pizza seems to be a much better bet at Arby’s. Order the Supremo version piled with olives, sundried tomatoes, jalapenos and feta cheese, and you’ll see why. A saucier version of the Pizza Primavera would have made the order much nicer.
In the end, a fresh Cajun spiced panini, high on flavour and aesthetics, made up for the unfinished shawarma on our plates. And it’s a wrap!
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The food at Arby’s doesn’t look anything like the pretty images on the menu, and only 50% of our order we enjoyed. But owner Jackie’ s earnest efforts and quest to please – he waits tables himself – means dishes you don’t like are likely to be replaced or pronounced on the house. Still, that’s no excuse for why your lemon iced tea should be warm and watered down; or your shawarma be served with ketchup. A little sprucing and tweaking will go a long way in ensuring that film buffs from Movie Time Suburbia cinema next door, stop by for a quick meal or even dart here during the intermission.
Last word: You already have your favourite pizza delivery joint on speed dial. Don’t change it. Call Arby’s when you need a tub of hummus for those pita-popping friends who come by for a drink. Hummus operandi!
Getting there: Arby’s, 259, Deccan Court, behind Shoppers’ Stop, SV Road, Bandra (W), call 30633291, free home delivery in Bandra and Khar, Rs 300 for a meal for two.
At Brown Paper Bag we review restaurants anonymously and pay for our own meals.
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