An increasing number of young people from Mumbai and Delhi, far from retirement age, are moving to Goa, taking work with them. How do you move to the land of feni without ending up on the futon, looking like Bob Marley? Can Rs 12,000 really get you a 2BHK? How will you make money, where will you meet new people? bpb gets four Mumbai and Delhi professionals who’ve moved to Goa, to share their how-to guides. Go(a) West, where the skies are blue!

Deepti Kapoor, 32, writer/yoga teacher, moved to Goa in 2009

What do you do?

I am a yoga teacher and freelance writer.

Why did you move to Goa?

I first came here to study yoga, and decided to stay back.

What neighbourhood do you live in?

I live in Assagao, which is really popular and beautiful, but it’s becoming more and more expensive every year, and big construction projects are appearing as people sell their old Portuguese villas.

How did you find a house?

I tried a couple of brokers but found that putting the word out through friends is the best way to find a home. There’s also Homes and Estate magazine, which has a bunch of good listings. Parra and Saligao are nice, and then there’s Bastora and Aldona even further inland, which is where a couple of people I know have moved to. Baga and Calangute are now hell on Earth as far as I’m concerned. Rents can range from 15k - 35k for 2BHK, depending on what sort of place you want. There’s a Facebook group called Goa Life that’s a very useful resource for people already living here.

How did you find work?

In terms of finding work, the yoga teaching came from practising so much yoga with a master yogi that people started asking me to teach. So one thing led to another as it often happens here. You go to a cafe and someone's just lost their pastry chef, so they ask you if you can bake or know someone who can. Or if you have reasonable management skills you could end up running resorts, hotels, shops, cafes, shacks. Knowing how to make proper cocktails would help here in season, there are lots of bartenders but none with proper skills. It's really just knowing people, having connections and skills to go with them.

There's freelance writing work, but it's tenuous and not very well paying. I had a good line in with Thomas Cook, but then the recession happened and they can't really afford new guidebooks now.

Basic amenities

Internet has been difficult. Everywhere we’ve lived there’s been reception problems, plus dealing with some of the staff is a nightmare. Mobile phone is easy as easy can be, landline is a headache. Carpenters, cooks, drivers are harder to come by than in Delhi or Mumbai. Cooks don’t want to come to your house and they don’t want to work certain hours.

Shopping essentials

Oxford supermarket in North Anjuna, Ajay Supermarket in Mapusa, Savitri at Vagator/Chapora, Viegas at Arpora and Newtons in the dreaded Calangute, which unfortunately has a phenomenal alcohol section. Orchard supermarket in South Anjuna is the best, though.  They stock organic veggies, great bakery products from nearby cafes and all the necessary imported goods. The fruit and vegetable stalls in Chapora, opposite the juice place, are great too, and Mapusa market, is still the best place for everything, and the cheapest. Here, look out for Tea Corner, which has good domestic coffee and a great selection of teas. Can’t live without them.

Making Friends

There’s no problem meeting people in Goa. Go to Curly’s, go to Bubble Brunch, go to Baba au Rhum, go to a yoga class, go to any of the parties that are advertised, sit in a café, sit in a shack, sit in a restaurant - people talk. If you want to join clubs, look at flyers too and notice boards at places like Orchard and Coffee Heaven in Anjuna. Off season is a little trickier, although this year it looks like there isn’t much of an off season in large parts of the North, in the sense that it’s absolutely rammed around Calangute-Baga.

Getting around in Goa

I have a bike and my own car, but I’ve heard from other people that it’s hard to find a good, reliable driver in the state. But you don’t really need drivers like you do in the cities. The taxi mafia in Goa is terrible, that much I do know, although I have the number of three or four good taxi drivers and that’s enough. It’s not hard to get a taxi in Goa - you just stand outside and shout. Everyone’s brother is a taxi driver. Only the prices are extortionate.

Goa vs. Delhi

I pick Goa for the food: foreigners make authentic food at really good prices. Baba au Rhum, Sakana, Villa Blanche, Coffee Heaven. None of these would exist anywhere else in the country. Also Goan food, from the ubiquitous fifty-rupee fish curry-rice plate to Salvador’s beef chilly fry cart at the Candolim vegetable market/football ground junction and the exquisite old Goan-Portuguese banquet at Palacio do Deao in Quepem. And where else are you going to get beer and ten-rupee oysters straight out the ocean on a deserted beach, the name of which I’m not going to tell you.

How not to turn into a beach bum

Live inland, have a job, need that job to pay the rent, don’t think you’re on holiday, and know how much raw sewage is pumped into the ocean off the beaches. Of course, lots of jobs involve being a beach bum, so if you can make it work good luck to you.

One cool Goa person to know

I'd say you need to know Philip Brooks, a hairdresser who used to be in the biggest salons in London and New York, who is a genius with hair, and has been in Goa for twenty years on and off and is now based in Anjuna all year round.

Also the Barr family, the best butchers around. Their burgers, bacon, sausages and ham are used by so many restaurants in north Goa, but you can also order them directly. Best to speak to one of the brothers, Chris or Steve, (who are also DJs here) on 98222130836.

Catch more of Deepti on her blog.

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Ajay Makhija, 27, stock trader, moved to Goa in 2012

What do you do?

I am a stock trader.

Why did you move to Goa?

Mumbai got too crowded. I wanted to live in a cleaner, more open environment.

What neighbourhood do you live in?

Arpora, mostly because I found a nice house there. It’s clean and well connected.

How did you find a house?

There are a ton of places available for rent from old Portuguese houses to gated complexes and flats. Driving around and knocking on doors is a surprisingly good option. Best neighbourhoods to live in are Siolim, Assagaon, Parra, Arpora, Saligao - close to the beach but not touristy. Talking to people who’ve moved before you is a much better option than using a broker. The rent in Arpora is about Rs 12k to 15k a month.

How did you find work?

I'm a stock trader. I have a phone and internet and that's pretty much all I need.  If you don’t want to work out of home, Bombay Connect, a cool community office originally in Mumbai, is setting up a work space in Goa by the end of this year.

Connectivity

Internet is not too much of a bother. A BSNL landline has the best connectivity.

Shopping essentials

Candolim has Newton’s which is super-stocked with food, household goods, toiletries, alcohol, etc.

Making Friends

I knew one person in Goa, and through that one friend I met twenty more. Goa has a small community of people, so they tend to congregate in a few places like Baba au Rhum (Arpora), especially during off-season.

Getting around in Goa

Bullet is the best way to get around, and a car when it’s raining. There are also "pilots" ie guys with their own bikes who will pick you up and drop you off for a fee. For anything bike-related, call Damian on 9822385861.

Goa vs. Mumbai

It’s green here in Goa. Taking a drive/ride or going down to the beach puts me in a better mood. People aren't in so much of a rush to get things down. Also, petrol's at about Rs 57.

How not to turn into a beach bum.

You really need to work hard at this. Make a schedule, go home early on week nights, don't smoke too much. Don’t smoke at all if you can manage that.

One cool Goa person to know

Lazarus - he makes the best Chicken Cafreal and sells it out of an Anjuna stall near St Michael’s Church.

You can find Ajay on Facebook here.

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Deveshe Dutt, 32, freelance writer, moved to Goa in 2010

What do you do?

I am a freelance content writer.

Why did you move to Goa?

During a short stay in Goa, I happened be cycling down a shady, tree-covered road with Portuguese houses on one side and fields on the other. I stopped, looked around and decided that the move must be made.

What neighbourhood do you live in?

Saligaon. It’s inland and about 15 minutes from Calangute and Candolim. A sweet residential area.

How did you find a house?

Don't limit yourself to a specific area unless you have a really good reason to be there. I didn’t use a broker because I found that word of mouth is most effective. Also check House For Rent ads in the Navhind Times.

How did you find work?

I mostly got gigs through common friends. I work remotely, so my home doubles up as my office.  If you’re looking for seasonal jobs, restaurants are always looking for help. The Saturday Night Market and Wednesday Markets are great places to work/sell stuff.

Basic amenities

Stuff like Internet and phone lines are not difficult to get, but do require a little persistence. The trick is to have a co-operative landlord. Remember, you need proof of residence to secure an internet and phone connection, so often you can't apply until you've signed your lease. One of those Photon cards is a worthwhile investment, depending on where you are. For instance, in Porvorim, I got great signal but in Assagaon, where Tata had not invested in infrastructure, the signal was terrible to non-existent.

Shopping essentials

By the nature of the place, you get a lot of fantastic organic, natural and homemade produce and often cheaper than what you would find at Nature's Basket. My go-to place is this wholesale vendor opposite Lourdes Convent in Saligao that supplies vegetables to a bunch of restaurants in Goa.

Making friends

Depends on the person's interests, but Facebook is full of Goa forums. Seek and you will find. There are also organisations like Sunaparanta, Kala Academy, Goa International Centre, Literati, etc that are always hosting cultural events. Just visit a couple of times and if you like what you see, put yourself on their mailing list.

Getting around in Goa

Public Transport is expensive and cab drivers are quite arrogant. Pilots (motorcycle taxis) are much nicer, but again their timings can be somewhat inconsistent. It’s best to rent a scooter or buy a second hand car. If you don't drive, I suggest you learn before moving, because in Goa you’re is really handicapped without transport. 

Goa vs. Mumbai

Better quality of life and value for money in Goa. Plus, the opportunity to collaborate with people from all over the world, with varied skill sets and talent. But, here’s a story I did for CNNGo.com on why I miss Mumbai.

Favourite thing to do in Goa

Cycle down the river road from Chapora to Siolim. You can buy a bicycle for as cheap as Rs 1,000.

How not to turn into a beach bum

Go out a lot when you first visit and get it out of your system.

One cool Goa person to know

My friend Sapna Shahani, who is the Director at Wave, an NGO that teaches women in India how to make videos about issues that concern them.

You can follow her on Twitter @Deveshe

 ***

Sameer Thakur, 38, co-founder Cathaayatra, a theatre collective, co-owner LotusEaters bookstore and public health communication consultant, moved to Goa in 2011.

What do you do?

I run a second-hand bookstore called LotusEaters in Anjuna. I'm also a public health communication consultant with some United Nations and international agencies.

What neighbourhood do you live in?

Assagao, Bardez.

How did you find a house?

Goan house-owners prefer to rent out houses and apartments in the popular beach belts in high season for six months (October to April). This is to garner maximum rents from foreign tourists. However, a standard 11-month lease is also preferred in many places.

Hidden gems can be discovered for relatively bargain rents in inland islands and villages like Loutolim, Chorao, Aldona and Siolim. Rents in beach belts range from Rs 8000 to Rs 50,000 per month.

How did you find work?

One can work for many small traders at the night market and flea market. With good English language and PR skills, a part-time job in the hospitality sector is easy to find. Regular jobs are advertised in newspapers and online. Rents are reasonable for businesses because houses double up as working spaces in most cases.

Basic amenities

Goa has most private mobile operators present. However, internet broadband connections are only available with BSNL and one local cable company. Many expats and Indian families have made Goa their home, so help is available if you ask around for references. Neighbors and other villagers are also friendly and helpful with information. A couple of major newspapers in Goa run daily classifieds for all services.

Shopping essentials

Most villages have the friendly neighborhood shop for essentials. Mid-sized local supermarkets are also coming up at most popular villages. Many of the locals shop at weekly markets in the nearest town. Places like Panjim, Margao and Candolim and have huge supermarkets for every need.

Making friends

The Goan social scene runs on two things – great music and cheap booze. Film clubs and art centers also have regular offerings (Wallfly Film Club, Art Escape). Panaji has a few galleries and art centers including film institutes and language learning centers (Gallery Gitanjali, Sunaparanta, Goa Film Club).

Konkani theatre – known as Tiatr – is a popular form of entertainment. A couple of theatre companies do regular plays in English (Cathaayatra, Mustard Seed Art Company).

Getting around in Goa

Buses run between villages and nearest towns - usually taking the long and scenic route - but for those in a hurry, there’s a cab and the odd rickshaw around most corners, as well as bike ‘pilots’ on call. Goa is also paradise for bicyclists, who don’t mind leisurely workouts over short distances.

Goa vs. Delhi

The beaches, beautiful rivers and backwaters score for Goa. Also, the fact that one can live a quiet village life with everything available in the cities. Standard of living is definitely better here than big cities with their violence-prone traffic snarls and space constraints.

How not to turn into a beach bum

Get something to do! Yoga, dance, music classes as well as some freelance work.