For many, train travel in India can be a harrowing experience. But for London-based journalist Monisha Rajesh, whose 100-odd train rides across the country culminated into the book Around India In 80 Trains, it was like tripping in bogey wonderland. Here, she reveals her favourite train rides, routes, on-rail breakfast and railway retirement rooms. Hop on!  

Next Stop, Retirement? 

When hopping from one city to the next, bear in mind that hotels and hostels aren’t the only option. Railway retirement rooms, like the trains themselves, can vary from immaculate to downright inhumane, but if you want to test them out, Mysore Junction houses some of the finest around. They’re offered on a first-come-first-served basis and comprise beautiful old bedrooms with arched windows, billowing curtains and marble floors.

Coach-ed Eggs

If you’re up for a little adventure, take a passenger train from Jammu Tawi station up to Udhampur – the northernmost tip of the Indian Railways. The journey takes you through the Himalayan foothills, rattling over gorges furrowed with rivers of chocolate milk and balding riverbeds piled with rocks. But the key accompaniment to your journey should be a stack of omelette sandwiches which you can pick up at Jammu Tawi station’s restaurant. It provides the fluffiest omelettes on the Indian Railways: inch-deep with two springy pieces of bread and a healthy swipe of ketchup which you will be grateful for when you reach the end of your journey and find Udhampur isn’t the most happening town. Stay on board, eat your sarnies and head back to Jammu.

Royal Lines

Luxury trains aren’t considered to encompass the true Indian train experience, but that isn’t to say they aren’t worth a look-in. The Palace on Wheels is far from the only princely carrier, and in fact, it’s quite old and run down now. The Golden Chariot – which runs across Karnataka – offers a unique alternative to the clichés of Rajasthan’s Golden Triangle. It begins in Bangalore and passes through Mysore, Hassan, Hampi, Badami and Shravanabelagola, ending in Vasco da Gama in Goa. The food is wonderful, the service sharp and attentive and the service is popular with Indian families rather than baseball cap-wearing tourists.

Ditch The Rajdhani, Go Duronto

When travelling between large cities, especially for overnight journeys, forget the Rajdhanis and opt for the new fleet of Duronto Express trains for an all-round excellent service. Introduced in September 2009, the non-stop trains are faster and cleaner, offering more comfort and space with the added benefit of being derailment-proof. However, they aren’t cheap. Going from Pune to Delhi in a Duronto would cost Rs 1,455, while a general class ticket in the Jhelum Express, between the same cities, would be Rs 234. But it’s still a bargain compared to airline travel. The most expensive train ticket between Delhi and Chennai, on the Duronto, is Rs 4,125 compared with a flight at Rs 7,375 on SpiceJet.

One Man-dovi Show

Finally, if you have a day to while away, take the Mandovi Express along the Konkan Coast. There are speedy Jan Shatabdis and regular mail trains that cover the route, but the Mandovi Express leaves Madgaon at 8.30 am arriving in Mumbai at around 9.45 pm, giving you a full day to dangle out of the doorways as the train crawls through coconut groves, and shoots across bridges above the sea– not to mention the excellent chicken spring rolls and biryani served on board.

Which one came first? The Wi-Fi equipped cafe or the internet-leeching freelancer? It’s hard to tell in Bandra, where eateries of every kind – restaurants, coffee houses, snack bars – are altering menus and providing tech support for office nomads. Joining in is Linking Road pub Bonobo that despite staying up late, has decided to rise at noon, with a new tea-coffee menu and free Wi-Fi for freelancers. Welcome to the suburb where everybody knows your name, and you, their Wi-fi password.

(Note: Also, see our Colaba fetish map here.)

The Best Wi-fi Spots

Bonobo

Mini burgers, chai, coffee, beer buckets, soft jazz and free Wi-Fi at Bonobo that opens at noon, beginning August 3. Bring your shades, they say.

Best Beverage: Tulsi tea for Rs 100.

You’ll Begin to Love: Working at a bar.

You Should Know: Valet parking available, separate smoking section, four plug points, no air-conditioner but they have coolers and fans. Prepare to navigate crazy bargain shoppers on the street below.

The Yoga House

Peace and quiet at this church-facing café where shoes (and blues) aren’t permitted. See attached, their yoga class studio and feel-good store.

Best Beverage: Gunpowder green tea for Rs 90 or a shot of pink juice for Rs 50.

You’ll Begin to Love: The 4.30 pm to 8 pm slot when super fit girls and boys flit in and out of the yoga class. Nice view.

You Should Know: Finding a parking spot is almost impossible, smoking is permitted, four plug points available, watch out for cats who slink around the cafe. Also, ants. Work here often enough and you’ll almost definitely buy something random at their store, like a bottle of rose water with crystal top.

Atrium Lounge at Taj Land’s End

Whoa! You must have freelanced your a** off to afford the luxe chairs and Rs 450-an-hour Wi-Fi here (better bring your own data card). In addition to printing facilities, the business centre upstairs offers secretaries on demand and foreign language interpretational services. Never know when you might need those!

Best Beverage: Monkey’s Pick Green Tea for Rs 440.

You’ll Begin to Love: The luxury.

You Should Know: Valet parking available, no separate smoking section, Bandra’s boho dressing is not permissible here and the space morphs into a bar post sunset.  Stay for live piano.

The Bagel Shop

Here, you can stretch a cup of coffee to last all day, and you won’t be asked to leave.

Best Beverage: Hot Chocolate for Rs 69.

You’ll Begin to Love: Eavesdropping on interesting conversation.

You Should Know: Parking’s a pain, no separate smoking section, seven plug points available and constant disturbance from a loud smoothie maker if you sit indoors.

Mia Cucina

Lug your laptop to this all-day Italian restaurant and escape noisy college kids and sometimes, hookah smoke that come with working out of a coffee house.

Best Beverage: Americano for Rs 65.

You’ll Begin to Love: The tiny cups of tiramisu.

You Should Know: Valet parking available, two plug points (with extension cable), the restroom isn’t always in ship shape, and you are at grave risk of choosing wine over coffee.

Getting there:

Bonobo, second floor, Kenilworth Mall, off Linking Road, Bandra (W), call 26055050.

The Yoga House, 153, Chimbai House, opposite St. Andrews Church, Bandra (W), call 65545001.

Atrium Lounge, Taj Land’s End, Bandstand, Bandra (W), call 66681234.

The Bagel Shop, Pali Mala Road, off Carter Road, Bandra (W), call 26050178.

Mia Cucina, 16/17, Gasper Enclave, St John Street, Pali Naka, next to Papa Pancho, Bandra (W), call 66710158.

No Matter What Anyone Says, Avoid These:

Gloria Jean’s Coffees, Turner Road: Plenty of beverages but no functional restroom!

Candies, Pali Hill: Yum snacks, but too many noisy college kids.

Freelancer’s Directory: Numbers to Know

1. Neat Gigs: Hill Road Media is constantly on the lookout for freelance writers, photographers, graphic designers, voice over artists. For more information on this Bandra-based content house’s projects visit www.hillroadmedia.com and email your CV to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
   
2. Stationery Needs: Helping you look good on paper is Navjivan Book Centre, shop no 248, opposite National College, Linking Road, Bandra (W), call 26422157.
3. Business Cards: Durga Arts is quick and reliable. Call Deepak Malhotra
   on 98210 27397 / 26515194 / 26516015.
4. Technology Butler: Call computer engineer Afroz on 9833541606 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it and he’ll show up on the double to fix that busted laptop.
5. Old Magazine Delivery: This 20 odd year-old pavement booth delivers old editions of international magazines – from Vanity Fair to National Geographic and everything in between – as well as rare books. No.1, Pali Naka, outside Lemon Grass restaurant, Bandra (W), call 26005642.
6. Foreign Language Hub: After hours, St Stanislaus High School’s premises are open to anyone who wants to sign up for a foreign language course taught by reputed institutes like Alliance Francaise de Bombay and Inchin Closer. How do you say ‘between engagements’ in French? 65, Hill Road Bandra (W).
   
   

This Scouter’s sibling and honorary member of the bpb crew continent-hopped all the way to Brazil recently, coming back with stories of silvery beaches, heaving crowds, salsa moves and a chance encounter involving copious amounts of alcohol and a Giselle look-alike. He might have made that last one up, but the rest of his recommendations are rock solid. PS: Big shout out to Akshat Poddar and Aditya Parekh for inputs.

Stay

It may not be on the beach, but one of the prettiest hotels in Rio is Hotel Santa Teresa, located in the historic and hilly Santa Teresa neighborhood that’s experiencing a huge revival with the city’s hipsters. With under 50 rooms, each of which display indigenous (yet non-cheesy) art and crafts, the hotel also boasts a super pool and full service spa. Rio has a ton of hostels too, but backpackers, be prepared to deal with dodgy roommates, spotty internet connections and sometimes even roaches. Still game? Try Mellow Yellow hostel, which has its own bar and is located only ten minutes away from Copacabana, Rio’s most commercial beach.

Hotel Santa Teresa, Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 660 Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro-RJ 20241-260, call +55 (21) 33800200 or visit the website here.

Mello Yellow Hostel, Rua General Barbosa Lima, 51 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro-RJ 22011-060, call +55 (21) 22333815 or visit the website here.

Eat

Like most of South America, Brazilian cuisine is all about seafood and meat, so if you’re a vegetarian, you’d better enjoy beans with rice, a staple. Zuka is a fun restaurant, located in the uber-trendy Leblon area and serving similarly trendy food. We loved everything we ate here, including creamy chicken and sweet, succulent lamb, but that might have something to do with the huge wine list that we felt obliged to raid. Also try Aprazivel in Santa Teresa, located in a pretty garden with fragrant flowers and astounding views of the city. Here you’ll find “modern” Brazilian cuisine, including the best free-range chicken we’ve ever eaten, baked bananas and – hallelujah! – some vegetarian options.

Zuka, Rua Dias Ferreira, 233 - Leblon, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22431-050, call +55 (21) 32057154.

Aprazivel, Rua Aprazível, 62 - Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 20241-270, call +55 (21) 25089174 or visit the website here.

Drink

You can’t walk two steps in Rio without bumping into a drink – and unlike our bartenders back home, these guys are generous with their alcohol. Don’t leave without visiting Rio Scenarium, a four storey antique store that has been converted into one of the city’s hottest night spots. Unlike most clubs, though, it isn’t dark and dingy – there’s plenty of light, every table is unique, a local band belts out awesome tunes and tourists mingle with (hot!) locals at the bar. Make a reservation in advance if you can – tables are often booked out for over a week.

Also try Casa Roja, a former brothel, for Brazilian hip-hop; branch of the Belgian beer chain Delirium Café for the best beer ever; and the beach shacks on Copacabana and Ipanema for some sip-and-surf. Finally, if you’re feeling really adventurous, venture to The Maze, a local music-and-food bar with awesome views, located in a “favela” – slums best known for drugs and violence, which are slowly cleaning up because of a huge push by local authorities. Wild nights, indeed!

Rio Scenarium, Rua do Lavrádio, 36 - Centro, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 20230-070, call +55 (21) 31479007.

Delirium Café, Rua Barão da Torre 183, Ipanema, call +55 (21) 2502 2209 or visit the website here.

The Maze, Rua Tavares Bastos, 414 – Catete, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22221-030, call +55 (21) 25585541 or visit the website here.

Shop

There are tons of little local stores around Copacabana and Ipanema, but walk in knowing that you’ll probably get ripped off. A more fun way to indulge in tourist-trap spending is the Saturday flea market in the old neighborhood of Centro, known to yield up everything from finely carved sickles to pin-up posters from the 1960s.

What: Kushalgarh Lodge, Kushalgarh Narainpur Road, Sariska, Kushalgarh, call 09999919861 or write to  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , approximately Rs 7,000 per night for a tent, inclusive of all meals.

Why: The late Maharani of Alwar’s weekend getaway in the Aravallis gets a king sized makeover, re-launching soon as a 7 acre luxury retreat.  Expect a dozen air-conditioned luxury tents (verandah and bathroom included), stabled horses, swimming pool, gourmet meals and most importantly, a well-stocked bar. Those looking for an active vacation – who are you people?! – can also borrow bikes from the hotel and head into Sariska National Park, only a few kilometers away.

When: Crown-sourcing begins in August 2012.

You know that booty call from out of town that you've been trying to schedule all summer? It just got easier. Say spank you to the brand new Bloomsrooms Hotel in Jangpura, which offers cool, clean, well-designed accommodation at inexpensive prices (but not by the hour, alas). It's also a good place to gently offload annoying relatives at, or move in to during a power cut. Fruit of the bloom, indeed. 

De(lhi)sign

Designed by French interior studio ultra confidentiel (they did the Mini Cooper showroom as well), the two-storied hotel is conveniently located next to Jangpura Metro station, with a cheery yellow gate and porthole-esque windows punctuating its white façade. All the staff wear yellow t-shirts too, and the manager who showed us around sported a daffodil tie.

Walk in and you'll be greeted by a sprawling map of the Capital, also rendered by ultra confidentiel, with illustrations depicting Delhi's (private) parts. Not quite to scale, but it still adds to the overall whimsy. The hotel also offers free high speed wi-fi; an iMac on each floor; an Amici cafe serving breakfast buffet exclusively for hotel guests; and a shuttle car to nearby Metro stations, Khan Market and Humayun's Tomb. There isn't, however, airport pick up or drop off facility yet, nor a pool or conference room.

Bed and Butter

The first of what the manager tells us will be a Delhi chain —no plans to open anywhere else in the country yet—the hotel was unoccupied when we visited, but has a capacity of 40 rooms. The second floor is still being fine tuned though, so at the moment, there’s only 28 rooms in circulation. Most of these are standard rooms for two featuring either queen sized or bunk beds. There are also rooms for the single traveler with a rather Spartan bed tucked into their sides.

The rooms themselves follow the hotel's yellow-and-white colour scheme, with minimalist boxy designs. Apparently, the beds are their biggest draw, bouncy Cloud mattresses perfect for nocturnal activities. Other features we like: a shelf under the wall plug point, so your cellphone doesn't dangle mid-air; a reading light with switch above the pillow; bathrooms featuring rain showers and separate dry and wet areas.

All in all, perfect for the hot and friendly visitor you've been meaning to invite into town. Enjoy!

Getting there: 7, Link Road, Jangpura, call 47725666 or visit the website here, compact room approximately Rs 1500 per night.

Bhangarh is the stuff nightmares are made of. Ranked as one of Asia’s most haunted towns by ghosthunter shows, this little Rajasthan outpost is said to be the victim of an ancient curse, and the Archaeological Survey of India has forbidden entry into its ruinous fort between sunset and sunrise.

Sounds perfectly charming. Would you like to visit? Yes? Contact Let’s Get Packing, a new travel company that’s planning a haunted getaway to Bhangarh this weekend. Boo Rad-ley!

Ouija Board

This fun tour was conceptualised by former banker and Let’s Get Packing's founder Arjun Sachdeva, who says that India has more haunted destinations than spooky Scotland, and plans to make these ghostly tours a regular feature.

If you (s)care to find out more, here’s what will happen at the two-day Bhangarh trip: you will be staying at The Tiger Den, an RTDC guesthouse in the Sariska tiger sanctuary (sadly, the Tiger reserve is closed for the season) and will make your way to the fort ruins after lunch. Here, Arjun will relate myths and folklore that he has steadily gathered over three years of floating in and out of Bhangarh. But be warned, even in broad daylight, you’ll feel a distinct presence of someone standing behind you, Arjun says. In fact, he plans on making travellers sign an ‘enter at your own risk’ document, if they attempt a trip after dusk. The night ends back at the hotel with more ghost stories, of course.

This is where the underbelly and upper crust of Mumbai meet, a seam of land hemmed in by the fishy ocean and patterned with pleasures both high and low. There’s something for everyone here, they say. bpb puts this claim to test, scoping Colaba out for the weirdest fetishes we could find.

Agalmatophilia – Statues, mannequins and dolls are your thing

National Gallery of Modern Art: The NGMA might be accused of calcification, but for you, it’s a rock hard option. The sculpture collection here is extensive, diverse and – in case you were wondering – features plenty of nudity; see Pradosh Dasgupta’s “In Bondage” and Meera Mukherjee’s “Spirit of Daily Work”. Sir Cowasji Jahangir Public Hall, M G Road, Fort, call 22881971.

Souvenirs – Lots of dolls at this toy store. You may even score a pair of handcuffs as bonus.  Shop no. 117, Malabar Mansion, Garden Road, Colaba Causeway, call 22884066.

Arachibutyrophilia: You’re turned on by peanut butter

Indigo Deli: It may sound extremely strange now, but take one bite of the orgasmic peanut butter jelly sandwich at the Deli and tell us you didn’t feel a tingle. Featuring thick slices of French toast, nubby peanut butter and warm chocolate, this might be the sexiest sandwich in town. Also try peanut butter brownies at Theobroma. 5, ground floor, Pheroze Building, Chattrapati Shivaji Maharishi Marg, Apollo Bunder, call 6655 1010.

Catoptrophilia – Mirrors make you crazy

Bungalow 8: Small and framed in silver, embossed in white with a grip-worthy stem, set amongst glossy curls of wood, lying at your feet (well, that’s glass, but close enough): whatever your preference might be, you’ll find it mirrored at this store. Beds, chairs, rugs and even an antique bathtub are conveniently scattered around, should the urge overwhelm you. 1st, 2nd & 3rd floors, 17 Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba.

Butterfly Pond: Cool haircuts and a happy ending. Also find mirrors galore at neighbourhood salons Jean Claude Biguine, Tony & Guy and Trend Set at the President, where Doreen performs the most painless Brazilian wax in the city. 58, Royal Terrace, Wodehouse Road, Colaba, call 22182516.

Chremastistophilia:You get off on being robbed or held up

Starboard, Taj Mahal Palace & Tower: Yes, they make it with imported avocados and it’s the best in town, but Rs 1,676 for a small bowl of guacamole with tortilla chips is nothing short of highway robbery. It does peel good, though. The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder, call 66653366.

Ellipsis: Manned by the Voltaggio brothers of Top Chef fame, a meal here can cost you a cool Rs 5,000 per person – and that’s without alcohol. Read our full review here. B-1 Amarchand Mansion, Madam Cama Road, Colaba, call 66213333.

Eremophilia – You think deserted places are hot

The Courtyard: Once a thriving hub for fashionistas and boasting stores like Fish Fry by Manish Arora, Narendra Kumar, Rohit Bahl and more, this shopping complex is now a ghost town with only a couple of functioning shops and virtually no footfalls. A reluctant, verdant oasis, this is perfect for you. PS: Stay away from the Saturday night throngs at Prive, right next door. Otherwise, you’ll never come (here) again. The Minoo Desai Marg, Apollo Bunder.

Mukesh Mills: You have to see it to believe it, the ruined, blackened carcass of a mill, sprawled over acres and acres of seaside land, rattling with ghosts but not a single soul. Wide open!

Formicophilia - You enjoy insects crawling all over you

Ready for a hit of the monsoon and tired of waiting for the clouds to roll into Delhi, this Scouter escaped to rainy, humid Kuala Lumpur. But even surrounded by massive malls, drowning in flavourful ramen soup and dizzy from the heady pleasure of shopping at Dior, we didn’t forget about you. Here are our recommendations of what to do in KL, a metropolis slick with oil money and urban cool.

Eat

KL features a ton of international chains, but the city’s indigenous food scene is just as vibrant. Street corners all over the city have local kopi tiams or coffee shops that serve like Nasi Gorang and drunken noodles, fast and on the cheap.

Little Penang Kafe at KLCC is more upscale, and offers yum Malay coastal cuisine. We loved the Penang Rojak, a confection of squid, mango and cucumbers, all smothered in a treacly, deeply flavourful sauce. You should also try the (really) spicy beef curry, and not leave without a helping of traditional shaved ice dessert. They do customised dishes for vegetarians as well.

Beef lovers will also love Ninja Jones, a Japanese restaurant specialising in (relatively reasonable) Wagyu beef cooked many different ways and served with a side of amusing gimmicks, including waiters in ninja uniforms.

Getting there: Little Penang Kafe, level 4, Surya KLCC Mall, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, call +6021630215, approximately 80 RN for a meal for two; Ninja Jones A-G-5,ground floor, Northpoint, Mid valley City, No.1 Medan Syed Putra Utara, call +60 22881646, approximately 100 RN for a meal for two.

Shop

KL is a mall town, a fact that probably owes a lot to the brutally hot weather and sudden showers of torrential rain. Most retail malls are concentrated in the city centre, including the Pavilion and Surya KLCC, which occupies the bottom six floors of the Petronas Towers. Everything from Top Shop to Miu Miu can be found here, although at higher prices than in Europe and the States. We were transported straight to retail heaven when we spied a collection of Desigual at Parkson in the Pavilion, a Spanish label popular for unapologetically colourful clothes that are refreshingly different and still easy to wear. Look out for the anime screen-printed jersey dresses and t-shirts with billowing chiffon sleeves. Local fashion, alas, is hard to find.

Getting there: Surya KLCC Mall, Kuala Lumper City Centre; Pavilion Shopping Centre, 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.

Cheers!

It’s a source of great shame at the bpb office that neither of the Secret Scouters have been to The Taj Mahal. Have we lost our marble, you ask? We certainly have. While you glare at us angrily, Mumbai-based entrepreneur Gautam Shewakramani goes one step further to recommend his newly developed Taj Mahal Official Tour app for Android and iOS .

Launched on June 6, 2012, this app is also officially available as an audio tour at the Taj Mahal monument site in nine different languages. And today, in honour of Shah Jahan’s 357^th death anniversary, you can download it for free (the Android app however, isn't available for free)! The app has been developed by Audio Compass, a company that has been working closely with the Indian Tourism Board since April last year, to create audio tours for heritage sites in India like the Agra Fort, the Buddhist monuments at Sanchi, Salarjung Museum at Hyderabad and khajuraho Temple in Jabalpur.

Moaning Period

“While we do work with researchers and historians, the apps and audio tours aren’t just about straight up information. It’s also about fun, about creating an experience,” says founder Gautam, who holds degrees in Film and Computer Science from University of Notre Dame and an MBA from MIT. So for instance, if your Taj Mahal app/audio tour device is on while you’re at the monument site’s garden, you can tune into the Emperor and Mumtaz’s audible love story, complete with background sounds that transport you to Meena Bazaar, where the couple first met (free trial on their website here). Similar aquatic sounds are recorded while you hear about Shah Jahan’s massive, luxurious bath tub. Some people at the office are intrigued to know what historical sounds would make up the khajuraho app. Talking dirty?

Bombay Sound Check

Starting first week of July, Audio Compass will also launch two Mumbai multi-media walks – one in South Bombay that compares the city in 1947 and 2012 through two fictional characters; and the other is a Bollywood tour complete with star home visits. While these still sound a bit clichéd to us, Gautam promises that the slickly-produced  multi-media will set the walks apart from the other tours already available in the city.

The Audio Compass apps also come with disclaimers that advise you not to look at your phone while crossing the street at Horniman Circle or around the Taj. Take their advise or you might have to sacrifice more than your skilful hands for the love of India.

Getting there: Visit www.audiocompass.in, download the app for free today June 19, 2012, after which it costs USD 1.99.

We tell a gentleman friend that we’re exploring flying in a fighter jet, and he refuses to rise to the bait, assuming that we’re talking in metaphors again, referring perhaps to getting high on speed - which we do not condone – or launching into a full throated rendition of Chantal Kreviazuk’s pretty cover– which we recommend highly.

But this time, dear skeptical gentleman friend, we are being literal.

Waiting in the Wings

Kunal Goyal is founder of Thrillsextreme, a brand new adventure travel company that offers services ranging from relatively prosaic (ride in an ATV) to completely out there (fly in a spaceship). Based out of Gurgaon, Thrillsextreme operates from all over the world, zeroing in on places that allow clients to indulge in mind-bendingly cool activities.

We’re particularly enchanted with the prospect of riding in a fighter jet, picturing being strapped in, upside down in the sky, leaving a trail of white clouds in our wake, walking off the tarmac with a helmet cradled in the crook of our arm. Thrillextreme can organise these rides in nine different countries across Europe as well as in the US (there are no owners of private fighter jets in India), so be sure to check with them before planning your summer break.