Travel

From where to cook a banana tree to conquering forts around the city, we bring you the best travel secrets from Delhi and beyond.

Marathon on the Great Wall of China!
Friday, 22 February 2013 11:36

What: The Great Wall Marathon by The Active Holiday Company, call 09886281381 or visit www.activeholiday.in, packages start from 1,200 USD (flights and visa exclusive).

Why: Beach bums, be scared. Really scared as The Active Holiday Company whirls in to get your vacation a** off its beach towel and into some sort of sporting gear. Sign up for a holiday with this travel fitness company and you'll find yourself running a marathon in a country you haven't been to before, trekking up a mountain to get a bird's eye view of a new city or scuba diving below a pretty island. Coming up this May is a holiday planned around the Beijing Great Wall Marathon that involves 5,164 stone steps, among other challenges. But you're on vacation? Quit whining and start training!

When: You don't want to be just another brick in the wall. From  May 15 to 20.

 
Pali Language Classes: Speak, Memory
Tuesday, 19 February 2013 23:26



This spring, skip up and away to Deer Park Institute, a centre for classical Indian traditions near Dharamshala, which models itself after Nalanda, the original Indian institution for learning back in the fifth century, and teaches all aspects of Buddhism as well as running an eco-friendly institution (example: all guests are asked to bring their own water bottles to refill on the campus.) Like any spiritual retreat, there are certain rules you must follow: no drinking, no smoking, no meat, and no “sexual misconduct”.  But we’re sure you can manage a couple of weeks without. Cold turkey?

But we’re more interested in the classes they hold. Coming up in March is an introduction to classical Tibetan, a course that lasts a little over three weeks, and will end with you being able to read simple texts. Once you’ve done that, you might consider coming back for the eight-week Tibetan language programme, taught by an actual monk. (We also hear they're planning introduce classes in Pali soon!)

Zen-timental Musings

If language is not your thing, there are also creative classes: a film making workshop in June and a writing workshop in April and May. You could also choose to not take a class and just visit for the daily meditation and yoga, plus local sightseeing includes paragliding off a hill or a trek up to an ancient fort. Let the walls down!

You’ll see us return in the summer, much calmer people, and totally fluent in Tibetan, of course. Tashi delek!

Getting thereBir, District Kangra, Himachal Pradesh, call 01894-268508, or check here for a volunteer form, Introduction To Classical Tibetan from March 4 to 29.

 
8 Cool Things In Goa This Season
Thursday, 14 February 2013 13:11


We can never tire of a fresh list of things to do in Goa. Here's eight – most new(ish) - spots to visit in the sunshine state this season, from an EDM cafe that hosts beach tennis to a native American head gear stall at the Saturday night market.  Look what the tide brought in! Hat tip to Deveshe Dutt, our honorary Scouter in Goa.

The Diwa Club

Semi-submerged pool chairs with champagne-sugarcane cocktails. That's really all you need to know.

A couple of weeks ago, the Scouters hit The Diwa Club, a boutique hotel inside the Alila Diwa hotel space that recently opened up to non-members. Here, rooms are spacious with uber-luxe bathrooms that are given almost as much importance and space as the room itself. And while the pool too is humongous, we much preferred the one on the regular side of the hotel, with abovementioned chairs.

And if you can peel yourselves off them, you'll find that the concierge desk here offers a bunch of cool activities to indulge in around the area: Margao market tour with the chef to bring back fresh catch and learn how to cook it; a packed picnic basket to carry to the Three Kings Chapel on a hill where the view is stunning; and a meal cooked by the lady of Palacio de Deao, an old Portuguese house. The cool bit is that these services are available for non-hotel guests as well, so if you’re living in the South, call them.

For those who prefer to dine in-hotel, Indian and coastal restaurant Spice Studio is yum.

PS: bpb was invited to visit, and was hosted here for two nights.

48/10 Village Majorda, Adao Waddo, Salcette , call +91 8322746800 or visit http://www.alilahotels.com/diwagoa, Diwa Club rooms currently start at Rs 15,900 but change subject to season.

Bardo

While gossip of Greek restaurant Thalasa's new South Goa branch continues to do the rounds - a call to them confirmed that they don't have a new love child, but the whispers continue - here's a brand new sexy for you - Bardo.  With a convincing Miami beach club vibe, Bardo (started by some of the guys behind Aurus in Mumbai) -  has wide-as-grin white cane chairs overlooking an azure pool that overlooks the beach. While hot bikini-clad women flit in and out, you can order burgers, pizza, steak and more courtesy chef Vicky Ratnani. We went during the first week to find terrible service and many order muck ups, but our resident Goa friend tells us that it’s gotten much better now. Plus, there’s a Rs 900 Sunday brunch with unlimited alcohol that everyone’s talking about. Oh, and there’s a spa on the premises too!

Bardo, house no 62, Ashwem Vaddo, Morjim Ashwem Road, call +91 9890167531, http://www.bardogoa.com.

Samovar

Although we’re developed a fatigue for Alice in Wonderland inspirations, this yummy restaurant that opened a couple of months ago should come with an ‘eat me’ sign. Under a maze of the prettiest lights – some look like giant tears cried by the moon - you can eat Middle Eastern treats (get the mezze platter with a bunch of drinks) and later, hang out in giant wire teapot like structures. Looks like someone got high at tea! And there’s a Bloody Mary brunch on Sundays that we haven’t tried.

Recently, these guys also opened a jewellery and clothes store at the premises that we’re told is super well priced and worth a browse. And the cool thing is that all profits from Samovar go to the Samarpan Foundation that aims for a better tomorrow.

House 1136, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, call 09637007413 or view the Facebook page here.

The Soma Project

This EDM beach cafe and restaurant that started about two months ago by two Russian DJs, plays music until midnight. And recently, they started hosting beach tennis during the day. While the voice on the phone recommended the kitchen here for “barbequed stuff”, someone had another suggestion for grilled things – the Atona Waterfront on the Mandovi River with live music and a lovely view. Bring mosquito repellent.

Aswem Beach, North Goa, call +919822642624 or view the Facebook page here.

Maracas

Now this tapas bar has been around for a year, but it’s still not recommended and visited enough, our Goa friend tells us. Get one of the  pretty seats in the al fresco section and  choose from the tapas list that  covers Mediterranean, South East Asian, Latin American and Goan food (try the salmon quiche and chicken cafreal skewers).

Opposite O’Coqueiro restaurant, next to Urban Dhaba, NH-17, Porvorim, visit http://www.maracas-goa.com.

The Paper Boat Collective

Launched at the beginning of this month by two NID graduates who used to run Monkey Business pottery studio in Mumbai, this concept store operates out of a Portuguese house in Sangolda that you’ll want to make your home. Here you’ll find ceramics, furniture, bric a brac and texiles. See cushions that spell L-O-V-E, gorgeous teak rocking horse, yoga chair, airy bateek kurtas from Ruh and more. They’ve also been supplying to Mumbai’s fancy Le Mill store and exporting to others in London and Singapore.

No.248 Bella Vista, Chogm Road, Sangolda, Near Alua Resort, call +8326521248, view the Facebook group here.

 Native American Head Gear Guy

On the third floor steps at the Saturday night market, right across from the angel card reader, look for a guy who sells only Native American head gear. One of us Scouters bought a mad-lush  one for a friend’s Goa birthday party, which became the object of every Instagrammer’s affection. Many feathers in our cap!

Saturday Night Market, Arpora, North Goa, start at Rs 2,000.

Beach Candy

If your Goa trip is one of those spontaneous lets-leave-now plans, chances are that you need some fun beach clothes when you get there. If you’re staying around Morjim, hit the adorable Beach Candy, where tiny, tiny printed shorts come with ribbons that you can tie on the side.  If you’re going soon, also hit the Jade Jagger store that’s currently on sale, where we acquired a safety pin crop top for Rs 600!

Morjim Beach, North Goa, view product pictures here.



 
Bird Fair: With A Plume
Tuesday, 29 January 2013 19:09



We know you either just got back from the Jaipur, but take a breath and jump on that highway again: the annual Bird Fair starts again this weekend, and it promises to be just as exciting as the Lit Fest: maybe you could tweet about it?

Winging It

The Bird Fair started up in 1997 and has been run as a not-for-profit enterprise along Lake Mansagar (which the Jaipur Tourism and Wildlife Society have been trying to preserve) with the help of the British Birdwatching Society and nearby Jaltarang Resorts, which itself is worth your visit: a former palace in the middle of a lake, it is 300 years old with suspect background. Tomb raider?

Flight Patterns

As for the birds: Nishant Shukla, the fair manager tells us that amongst the many different species will be Northern shovelers, Northern pintails, common teal, cormorants, egrets and grey herons. You could also spot wild boar, deer, fox and if you're lucky, even a leopard. When we expressed concern that the birds would fly away thanks to all the commotion, he said they intended to make the fair as quiet as possible, with no loudspeakers and no loud noises.

The fair offers free entry to all visitors, and hands out binoculars and telescopes for people who want to birdwatch. Plus, this year they're getting in a panel of experts from the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary to be on hand, pointing out species giving tips. Tea and snacks will also be served. 

Getting there: February 1 and 2, 9 am to 2 pm, Man Sagar Lake, Jai Mahal premises, Jaipur, call 09829268028, entry free.

 
Starred Sessions: What To Watch At The Jaipur Lit Fest
Monday, 21 January 2013 17:05


Five days of wine, chatter, and probably someone coming up to you asking you what you write. Grab a table at Flo, the café, so you can people watch and drink plentiful free tea, and when you get a moment, escape to Copper Chimney for some of the best laal maas ever. The flipside? You’ll have to bag a seat at the sessions super early, and bpb's Delhi editor and most recently, author of Cold Feet, Meenakshi Reddy Madhavan suggests getting one of these chairs.

January 24

Notes On A Scandal: Zoe Heller In Conversation With Monisha Rajesh

We already like Monisha Rajesh, who did a list for us on train travel, which you can read here. Zoe Heller is the author of Booker nominated Notes On A Scandal, about a teacher who begins an affair with her student. All books discussed are on sale at the venue, so get her to sign your copy—and one for us too, please.

11.15 am to 12.15 pm, Char Bagh

Kinships Of Faith: HH Dalai Lama In Conversation With Pico Iyer

We’ve had the privilege of hearing the Dalai Lama speak before, and we can safely say you’ll love him. But his twinkling eyes and sudden laugh doesn’t take away from how much sense he makes during conversation. Pico Iyer has been one of our favourite travel writers for ages, so the two together should be delightful.

2.15 pm to 3.15 pm, Tata Steel Front Lawns

January 25

Laughing, Weeping, Writing: Manu Joseph, Mohammed Hanif, Gary Shteyngart and Deborah Moggach In Conversation With Ashok Ferrey

To be honest, we’re recommending this one primarily for Gary Schteyngart whose Super Sad True Love Story was one of the best books we read last year. But having heard Manu Joseph and Mohammed Hanif talk before, we know they’ll be charming and erudite on stage as well.

11.15 am to 12.15 am, Char Bagh

Sex And Sensibility: Women In Cinema – Shabana Azmi and Prasoon Joshi In Conversation With Sanjoy Roy

We don’t know about you, but Shabana Azmi, to us, is one of the sexiest women in Bollywood. We’re going to listen to her talking about her steamy roles and what she makes of it all.

3.30 pm to 4.30 pm, Tata Steel Front Lawns

January 26

Launch Of Arabic Version Of The Ramayana By Wadi Al Bustani

The late Lebanese poet was known for his translations of several major works into Arabic. We’re curious about this launch also because we’re fans of the sweeping epics and the Indian Council For Cultural Relations (ICCR) is organizing it, and they usually do a good job.

1.30 pm to 2.15 pm, Tata Steel Front Lawns

Found Music: Readings By Upamanyu Chatterjee And Amit Chaudhuri

Sure, not all authors are great readers, but there’s a certain magic to listening to how the author would read their own book. English, August remains one of our favourite pieces of Indian writing in English and we’re looking forward to a chance to just sit there with a cup of tea and be read to.

6 pm to 7 pm, Counselage Durbar Reading Room

January 27

The Art Of Biography: David Gilmour, Wade Davis, Andrew Lycett, John Zubrzycki and Pico Iyer

Nope, not the Pink Floyd David Gilmour, but we think you should go anyway. This David has done biographies on Lord Curzon and Rudyard Kipling, Wade Davis’ official title is Explorer-In-Residence at the National Geographic Society, Andrew Lycett has written about the life of Rudyard Kipling as well as Ian Fleming - think of it as a the dinner party conversation of your dreams.

3.30 pm to 4.30 pm, Char Bagh

The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel: Deborah Moggach

You may not have liked that film—based on her book These Foolish Things—but we’re willing to bet you’ve loved one of her screenplays: The Diary of Anne Frank or (be still our beating hearts) the BAFTA nominated Pride And Prejudice.

12.30 pm to 1.30 pm, Counselage Durbar Reading Room

January 28

Mallory And The Conquest Of The Everest: Wade Davis In Conversation With Patrick French

The “Explorer-In-Residence” is also an expert on George Mallory, the first man to climb the Everest, and one of our personal heroes. The author’s book on the subject won him the 2012 Samuel Johnson prize for non-fiction, and we can’t wait to hear all about the icy climbs.

12.30 pm to 1.30 pm, Google Mughal Tent

The Song Of Achilles: Madeline Miller In Conversation With Anjum Hassan

Do yourself a favour and read the book before the session, and then cross your fingers that Anjum Hassan will ask Madeline Miller about the “naughty parts”. The Song Of Achilles is a hot love story set in the time of the Iliad, which makes it even more awesome. Alas, both these sessions clash with each other, but you could go halves?

12.30 pm to 1.30 pm, Counselage Durbar Reading Room

(Note: The organisers aren’t always super organized, so be sure to check the whiteboards in front of each hall to make sure of timings, as they often get switched around.)

Getting there: Diggi Palace, Jaipur, view full schedule and updates on the website at http://jaipurliteraturefestival.org/index/, entry free.

 
Postcard from Shimla
Wednesday, 16 January 2013 00:52


Shimla, once the British Raj’s summer capital, has fallen somewhat out of fashion, ever since the cool kids decided to go to Landour for the same small town English charm. We went to Shimla last weekend to find no snow, but flying monkeys, gorgeous heritage homes and big no smoking signs. Can't you just smell the fresh air!

Getting There

By train: You know when they say that the journey is half the fun? We’re pretty sure they were talking about riding the toy train from Kalka to Shimla. These are usually fully booked—even our waitlisted ticket didn’t get us anywhere—but if you get to Kalka station, you can buy a general, non-reserved pass and then sweet talk the TC into upgrading you for the fare difference, like we did. It’s fully worth it, the pretty ride, the tiny stations and the long tunnels.  It’s even on the UNESCO World Heritage list. 

By bus: You can also take one of the Himachal Pradesh Tourism’s excellent Volvo buses from Delhi, with comfortable reclining seats and safe drivers. These ply on a daily basis between Delhi and Shimla, and can be caught at Himachal Bhawan. Bonus: they stop off at HPTDC guest houses along the way which are the only places you’re going to find traditional Himachali food. Go for the Himachal pulao with chunks of orange and apple, and the pomegranate chicken. Yum! (Book a bus here.)

Stay

Three Oberoi properties we heard recommended over and over again: Cecil, Wildflower Hall and Clarkes. We stayed at Clarkes ourselves, a small heritage property with delicious hot chocolate, well heated rooms and right on the Mall so you can walk to wherever you want to go. We negotiated for the off season price, but even during season time, it seems affordable and nice.  (Call 0177-2651010 or visit www.clarkesshimla.com, approximately Rs 7,000 for double room during  off season.)

Woodville Palace is a bit off the beaten track, but it’s also a gorgeous heritage property. Going through the guest book, however, we notice quite a few complaints regarding leaky bathrooms and whatnot, so maybe just do what we did and have some tea and pakodas on the lawn.  Call 0177-2623919, visit the website at www.woodvillepalacehotel.com.

Do

Go for a walk and get gloriously lost. If you need us to point you in a direction, try going towards Chotta Shimla from Mall Road. It’s a main road, but hardly anyone goes down it, and there are all these old houses you can look at and take pictures of, wonderful examples of the time that was.


Have a cheesy photograph taken in traditional pahari costumes. Hey, it’s Shimla, who’s going to recognise you.  Touts will come up to you on the Mall Road, just pick one!


Check out Gaiety Theatre which has conducted tours running all day. You’ll get to admire the lovely architecture and learn a bit about the history of the place. The Mall, call 0177-2650173.

Go ice skating. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t hold for us, and they had closed the rink, but we hear good things about this “all natural” ice rink. The best time to go is in the morning, but they’re also open for a few hours between 6 pm and 9 pm.  Circular Road, Shimla.


Eat

Wake and Bake café stands out for its gorgeous terrace views (beware of flying monkeys!) and good coffee. Also tasty, pizza by the slice—we ordered the bacon one and devoured it. The place is full of Shimla’s young hipsters so you might be in the right company.  (View the Facebook page here, Rs 80 for a coffee.)


We stumbled across perhaps the best momo chutney we’ve ever had in a tiny stall run by a Tibetan lady down the road from the sign leading to the ice skating rink, sandwiched by a number of jacket shops. Ask someone for the momo aunty, and get her plate of the vegetarian momos, with three different kinds of dipping sauces—hot, mild and white, delicious when mixed together. (Near ice skating rink, Circular Road, Rs 30 for veg momos.)


Know

All of Shimla is now a no-smoking city, and big threatening signs remind you of that fact every few feet. We spotted very few people smoking and even fewer cigarette shops, which means you might have to bring your own supply and smoke it in your room or go without.


Air bar!



 
Storm Festival in Coorg!
Thursday, 10 January 2013 16:48

What: Storm Festival, Coorg, Karnataka, Rs 3,500 for season ticket + stay (book here).

Why: You might think Coorg is all about misty hills and coffee, but here’s another reason to wake up to its charms: The second edition of the Storm music festival is next month, with reasonably priced tickets, tents you can stay in and a line up that includes Sid Cuotto, Pearl, Nikhil Chinapa and Indian Ocean doing a fusion set with Shankar Mahadevan. Bonus: there’ll be authentic Coorgi cuisine, a bar, and workshops on cooking and yoga. Feastival!

When: Lightening crashes on February 1 and 2.

 
Guest Scout: Postcard from Kochi
Wednesday, 09 January 2013 10:03


Architect and bpb’s guest Scouter Ashiesh Shah sends a postcard from the Kochi Muziris Biennale contemporary art exhibit, on until March 13. Follow his trail for cool art picks, plus what to do around the Kochi venue – visit ruins, synagogues and eat the best slice of chocolate cake.

Stay

Tea Bungalow

This sunny yellow colonial bungalow is now a boutique resort renting out ten rooms with names like Zanzibar, Galle, Cambay, Goa and Mauritius. Read by the cinnamon trees in the lawn or lounge around the lush pool.

1901, Kunumpuram, Fortkochi, Ernakulam, Kerala, 09388719679, visit http://www.teabungalow.in.

Vaamika Island

Popped up on the private island of Vettila Thurutu, this super luxe resort features lake villas with their own infinity pools, massage pavilions and butler service. Check out High Noon, the 200 year-old restored home.

Vettila Thuruthu, Eramalloor, 45 minutes from Kochi, Kerala, visit www.vaamika.com

Marari Beach Hotel

Spice cooking lessons, cottages and rain showers at this eco-luxe hotel.

Near Alleppey, Kerala, 0484 3011711, visit http://www.cghearth.com/marari-beach

The Old Courtyard

For a cheaper bed, try The Old Courtyard, built around a mango tree. You'll want to take the colonial furniture home.

Princess Street, Fort Cochin, Kerala, 0484-2216302, visit http://www.oldcourtyard.com.

***

Eat

Kashi Art Café

For slices of freshly baked chocolate cake served with their delicious house chocolate sauce. Also a good place for 4 pm sprouts.

Burgher Street, Fort Kochi, Kochi, Kerala, 0484 2215769.

Oceanos

The stir fried okra is definitely a take home. Don't forget to inquire about their special morning culinary classes and sign up.

Pattalam Road, Amaravathy, Kochi, Kerala, http://oceanosfortkochi.in.

Temporary cafes at the Aspinwall House by the River and at Pepper House

Mostly for the view.

Seagull Deck by the River

Get the prawns and calamari.

Kalvathi Road, Fort Kochi, Kochi, Kerala.

 
Rent a Goa Bungalow from a Delhi Couple
Tuesday, 18 December 2012 11:18



Owned by a Delhi couple who works in television, Sundays Forever is a Portuguese style villa stocked with stuff personally picked by them, including crockery, futons, blenders and Rolling Stones magazines. All you have to do is ride a vehicle into a ferry to get here (how fun!), and remember to order obscure and yummy cheese and kaju feni from them in advance.

But the coolest part about this river island home is that its rates remain the same irrespective of the season – a rare thing in Goa! Other amenities include air conditioners, badminton court, TV sets, DVD player and a super efficient caretaker with a two-wheeler. 

Peak season greetings!

Getting there:Sundays Forever, Village Calvim, Aldona, North Goa, 20 minutes from Anjuna, call 09811999014/09811999027 to make a reservation or visit http://www.sundaysforever.com, Rs 5,500 per night, sleeps six.

 
Sanghvi Salons in Goa
Thursday, 13 December 2012 19:44

What: The Sanghvi Salons in Goa at Sunaparanta - Goa Centre For The Arts 63/C-8, near Lar de Estudantes Altinho, Panaji call 08322421311 or visit http://www.sgcfa.org.

Why: The lovely Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi, author of The Lost Flamingoes of Bombay, migrates to Goa for the winter to host a bunch of interesting salons at the cool Sunaparanta Centre for Arts. Flap through this: while you’ve missed his conversation with artist Sudarshan Shetty, upcoming guests include Booker Prize winning Irish author Anne Enright, photographer Sooni Taraporevala, and – yawn alert - actor Jaya Bachchan. If you’re in Goa between now and February (of course you will be, so see schedule here), try and catch one of these.

When: You need to find your Panaji spot.

 
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