Food & Drink

From where to buy sake to the newest restaurant reviews, we scout out the best of Delhi’s culinary scene.

bpb review: Kerala Express, Nehru Place
Tuesday, 18 June 2013 10:48



7.30pm on a Monday evening is perhaps never as buzzing anywhere as a metro/train station.  We fed off the buoyant mood and rushed to the barely opened food mall, Epicuria, in Nehru Place's metro station.

 

While the mall is partly under construction (we brought you news of its opening), the food court section is almost complete. Crowd favourites likes Sagar Ratna, KFC meet newbies like Uncle Tom's and Joey Matthew's Kerala Express.

 

Model Behaviour

 

Joey Matthews, super model and host of popular cookery show Love Bites with Joey has gone back to her Malyali roots with Joey Matthews Kerala Express; on opening day, she tells us that she’ll soon be introducing bi-weekly specials as additions to a compact permanent menu, which we tackled by way of spicy buttermilk, a rich blend of chillies, curry leaves, ginger and mint. Eager to outdo the buttermilk was our appam, soft and fluffy as a hotel room pillow.

 

Seasoned in the Sun

 

Vegetarians have few options at Kerala Express- between appams and Malabar Parathas (contains egg) there only lies one curry dish- the vegetarian stew, fragrant with heat and spice, just slightly sweet with coconut, lush with thick chunks of potato, carrot and cauliflower.  Our non-vegetarian companion swore by her mutton chilly fry - flavoured with cumin seeds and chillies, the mutton itself was tender with a deliciously crusty outer layer. The Malabar roll however, stuffed with coriander, tomatoes, chilies and meat, paled in comparison to the sharply executed flavouring of the other dishes.

 

Available on the menu was also black Kerala coffee, but we didn’t need the caffeine kick to remember the tale of how a well-cooked meal redeemed our Monday.

 

Getting There: Joey Matthews Kerala Express, Food Court, Lower Ground Floor, Nehru Place Metro Station, Rs 1000 for a meal for two.

 

 

 

 
Les Bistro du Parc Opening Soon
Friday, 14 June 2013 11:05

What: Les Bistro du Parc to open in Defence Colony, first week of July. A-57,58,59 Moolchand Market, Defence Colony, call 467800800.

Why: We've promised ourselves that next time a new restaurant in Delhi calls itself 'multi-cuisine/continental', we'll pack our bags and move. It's with great expectations then, that we bring to you the news of Le Bistro du Parc opening an "authentic" French Bistro in Defence Colony. A friendly phone call revealed that the menu will be small, with  five dishes each for the main courses and appetizers, and dishes will change according to availability and season of produce. Bon Appetit.

When: You want to grill a mockingbird.

 
Trolleys To Open In Khan Market!
Thursday, 13 June 2013 13:16




Coming out of our favourite away-from-the-office den in Khan Market (Market Café—great burrito, usually a decent speed on the wifi and bonus! You’ll always run into someone you know) we spotted a wall that seemed to have gone a bit typography crazy. ‘Weird,’ said the 8 foot high banner, plastered over what used to be Watermelon Café, ‘Independent & Proud.’ (View the picture on our Instagram feed here.)

 

The Wheel Deal

Obviously, we had to investigate. Turns out Khan Market’s getting a brand new bar—featuring Italian and “proper Indian” food said the owner who had walked out to take a call when he bumped into us. Called ‘Trolleys’, think of airline food carts as opposed to weird little men on the internet. This will have a liquor license from the very first day and will feature lots of trolleys on their south-side façade, facing the other side of the market, somewhere over Subway.

 

When we asked about the banner, he said it was a deliberate way to create some mystery. “‘Weird’ is our bar, ‘Independent’ is our food and ‘Proud’ is our service staff,” he said.

 

Rolling In The Deep?

With HKV businesses fleeing from there as fast as they can, will Khan Market’s proximity to Meharchand mean that the nightlife there will get a bit of a kick in the pants? As long time fans, we certainly hope so.  Look out for our full review soon!

 

Getting there: Opens June 25, 7, first floor, Khan Market.

 
bpb review: Asian Box, Kailash Colony
Tuesday, 11 June 2013 09:45





While stereotypes make for terrible jokes (we're still cringing from one about a laughing Buddha on Saturday night, too cheesy to publish), they make for even worse descriptors. Asian box, the new Asian take-out place in Kailash Colony market seems to have missed the memo on this we thought, as we walked past a cardboard cut-out of an orange man brandishing chopsticks at the entrance.



Don't Wait (t)Oolong, Or She Will Be Gone



The no-frills indoor is dominated by a counter flanked by two parallel benches. Each bench faces a wall, where you could eat your food while sitting on plastic bar-stools, all the while affirming that being seated side by side makes for greater ease while sharing condiments.




The menu at Asian Box is a mix of what could easily be our favourite Asian dishes, but fails to live up to its promise. There's pad thai, prawns (in everything), old favourites Nasi and Mee Goreng. Excited, we ordered a selection and requested for home-delivery (it's free within 5kms), hoping for dinner and a movie.


Wok of Shame?

A quick word on the packing. You will miss the pricier Asian Haus. That lady knows that presentation sometimes is key.


Slow fried crispy chicken was so basic, we couldn't drum up the enthusiasm for more than a couple of bites, but vegetarians had a win for their team: Oriental fries were crunchy, just slightly chilly with a delicious lemon-y undertone. Pak choy and black mushroom dumplings, however, showed a won-ton disregard for recipe or taste. Coming apart at various places, we scooped out the inside of the paper-thin dumpling cover to find regular mushrooms and lettuce, unceremoniously tossed together.


The main course, while sounding ambitious, turned out to be a definitive and loud fall from grace. Prawn Yaki Udon noodles were doused in thick black bean sauce and lumped together with stray bits of crunchy prawn. The first bite revealed what the last one confirmed- black bean sauce will overpower and destroy any other flavouring which might struggle to survive on this dish. Vegetarian goreng noodles which promised to be spicy were reminiscent of a dry maggi served with too much masala. The brown shallots and sprouts which could have tempered the overall taste were mostly awol.


Asian Box is located close to Asian Haus and cheaper cousin Speedy Chow, and might need to lose the stereotype and pick up some cooking tips in order to survive. An Asian caricature does not noodle soup make.



Getting There: H.S 28 kailash colony main market. Rs. 1100 for a meal for two. Home- delivery free within 5 kms.

bpb review: Asian Box, Kailash Colony


 
Wok Star To Open In Nehru Place!
Monday, 10 June 2013 11:09



The last time we went to Nehru Place was either to catch a movie at Satyam Cineplex or to get our old laptop fixed. That describes this bit of Delhi pretty well—it’s a fixer upper. Parking is a nightmare and once you enter, you sort of can’t wait to leave.

 

Single Mall-t



Not anymore, however. There have been murmurs of a large food mall opening up in that area—but so far, that’s all it was, rumours. Now, we’re ready to confirm. By the beginning of next month, there will be a brand new eating destination, including Starbucks, Chicago Pizza and the first Benihana in India.

 

Additionally, they're also setting up a food court featuring brand new restaurant stalls. Delivery only Asian Haus, which we love, is opening a new restaurant there called Wok Star. This will have “cheaper, more Indianised” Chinese food, they told us on the phone. Also expect some paneer on the menu as well as bubble tea. Too Chindian for your tastes? They’re also planning on opening a Japanese restaurant elsewhere in about two months.

 

What else can you expect from the food court? We hear model Joey Matthews is opening a Malayali restaurant called Kerala Express with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food from that part of the country. Hop(per) on the band wagon!

 

Getting thereNehru Place DDI Mall, underneath Nehru Place Metro Station, Wok Nation due to open on July 1.

 
Tea Trunk Retailing Online!
Friday, 07 June 2013 13:45

What: Tea Trunk’s new e-store at www.teatrunk.com, Rs 800 for a box of vanilla black tea.

Why: When it comes to knowing about tea, leave(s) the talking to Snigdha Manchanda. We heard plenty – all good things – about the tea sommelier’s bit at the Goa Project un-conference, and she’s now selling her wares on a new e-store. There’s fun blends (no artificial flavours) like vanilla black tea, lemon green tea and rose oolong that she mainly sources from Darjeeling, Assam and the Nilgiris. Tea Trunk also hosts private tea tasting workshops and tea parties.

When: Now, for love and oolong-ing.

 
Elma's To Open In Meharchand Market
Friday, 07 June 2013 13:33

What: Elma’s Brasserie, Meharchand Market, full review out soon.

 

Why: As if you need more reasons to love Elma’s: the tearoom is slated to open in Meharchand Market some time next week. However, maybe you shouldn’t go expecting the scones or slow roasted tomato sarnies, because we hear the menu’s being changed. On the plus side, this avatar will also be open for dinner, but no word on the liquor license just yet.  Toast to that?

 

When: You’re bready for a change.

 
bpb review: Juiced Up, Kailash Colony
Tuesday, 04 June 2013 23:34



We've long been champions of a liquid diet but with the feverish heat, all we want is fresh juice. A lucky break, also known as Juiced Up, recently opened in Kailash Colony Market which is where we're bringing you this review from.
Freshly squeezed, no pulp.

For Lack of Concentration

Right next to Big Chill (which sees the most traffic in this neighborhood) is a narrow lane breaking off into auto repair shops and here neatly tucked away in a corner is brand new juice bar- Juiced Up. A predictable mix of neon lights, an enthusiastic wait staff, retro beanbags (yes, they're still around) and a bar with health messages screaming at you from the counter's surface. With a list of usual fresh fruit juices, shakes and smoothies, Juiced Up tries to shake things up with interesting pairings.

We opted for a sweet lime lemonade (the orange lemonade was unavailable),and a Green Fairy to kick things off. A mix of spinach, cucumber, mint, apples and cantaloupe juice the Green Fairy will resemble in appearance those wheatgrass shots which were all the rage a few summers ago. A sip into the drink and you'll realise why healthy things are good for you, with an easy consistency and the cantaloupe juice balancing out what could've been a bitter concoction (we're looking at you spinach) this could easily be your new favourite post-run buzz. The sweet lime lemonade however is more fresh sweet lime juice with a pinch of salt than anything else.

Low Hanging Fruit

Perfectly watered by now, we are ready to tackle on the heavier weights on the menu- smoothies and shakes. Recommended to us is a spicy banana smoothie which promises to lend us a ginger kick. The smoothie itself while packed with bananas (easily detected in the first sip) lacks any real depth and sadly the ginger kick is missing. But Creamy Cookie Delight - a cream-filled shake with lots of chocolate is better, an old fashioned shake, thick and sludgy, with perfectly blended ice.

With promises of fresh fruit (we verified this ourselves), only Mother Dairy ice-cream (for shakes) and yoghurt (for smoothies), and home delivery within a 2 km radius, Juiced Up could fast replace your morning cups of latte.
And no, they don't make them Irish. We checked.

Getting There: HS-6 Kailash Colony Market, web page here. Rs 99 for a Green Fairy.

 
The Temperamental Chef Now Retailing
Friday, 31 May 2013 13:26

What: The Temperamental Chef goodies now available at retail. Rs 248 for a spinach bolt


Why: We told you about the Temperamental Chef way back when they first opened in January. Their frozen delish vegetarian snacks are now retailing at all Modern Bazaar outlets, Ploof Deli (hey get a 15% off here with the Coup Card) and The Taste. Spinach bolts, Balinese bean bites and the beet and walnut bites  which makes up their range, could each be deep fried, shallow fried or baked, “ depending on how healthy you want to make it”, offers Srishti Handa, founder of the The Temperamental Chef. We deep fried the balinese beans bites, a scrumptious mix of black eyes peas, corn, ginger and bread crumbs topped off with Indonesian flavouring.


When: Being a vegetarian doesn't feel like a missed steak.

 
bpb review: Pollo Tropical
Thursday, 30 May 2013 12:15


Here's one thing we’ll say about dining under fluorescent lighting: little will get past unnoticed.


Pollo Tropical, the American restaurant chain brought its Caribbean cuisine menu to Delhi last week with promises of signature dishes, chicken which is never frozen, and a Caribbean inspired atmosphere. If like us you're easily swayed by promises, then steady your heart, dear reader.


Facepalm


Pollo Tropical reminded us of our least favourite place in the city- the food court inside the mall. The lone representative of 'Caribbean inspired atmosphere' here was a palm shaped tree under the logo, flickering bright. Wooden chairs and tables were arranged neatly in rows along a self service counter, with perhaps the friendliest service we've known so far. The menu was brief, and included “trademark” Tropichops, sauces and grilled chicken. Missing were “signature” tostones and pineapple chicken wrap, which we read about on the restaurant chain website.


The Tropichop, which we began our meal with, was a dish begging for gravy, salt, flavouring and perhaps a complete replacement. Corn and tomatoes lay on top of a layer of black beans like plus ones at a party they didn't belong to. The black beans, paneer and rice made for a tough, chewy combination, one which wouldn't go down even with big gulps of water.


Side Views 


Accompanying sauces, however, were excellent - we recommend you hold on to deliciously tangy Cilantro garlic and the evenly spiced Poyo Poyo: they might remain your sole allies during your meal.

Our quesadilla chicken wrap carried the spirit of our earlier dish - far too dry, with tough pieces of chicken and tomatoes and a side of grilled chicken resembled something we’d been served on an airplane once. By now, we were hankering for a happy ending and submitted to ordering Tres Liche - another signature (sigh) dessert, which turned out to be awfully sticky, syrupy sponge cake with whipped cream and a sad looking tinned cherry on top.


Here's another thing about dining under fluorescent lighting: you should never expect an after-glow.


Getting there: MA-01 DLF Place Saket, call 41099909, Rs 650 for a meal for two.

 
Tease At The Taj Vivanta
Thursday, 23 May 2013 22:41

What: Tease, Vivanta by Taj, Sector 44, Gurgaon, 122004, call 0124-6671234, Rs 3.600 for drinks with snacks.


Why: New-ish bar in Gurgaon, Tease is sophisticated with a large terrace and wood finished interiors. Though it was empty when we visited on a weekday, we enjoyed the cocktails particularly the  Bees Knees—traditionally gin, but made with vodka here with limencello andManuka honey—the colour of a bruise, with froth on top. Star Martini with passionfruit, vodka and champagne, strong as its namesake, the bubbles of the champagne mixing with the vodka to make us giggly by only sip three. Also try Thai fish cakes and vegetarian baodumplings. Make sure to check on your bartender however, when we visited, he forgot to put alcohol in the Green Tea martini, making it about as potent as a milkshake. Oh well, mistakes happen, and this is the perfect pre-dinner drinks spot if you’re in theneighbourhood and fancy something posh.


When: You need to (t)ease the pain of Monday.

 
Sharbat Kulfi Walk: Cold Comfort Farm
Wednesday, 22 May 2013 11:39



In this forty two degree weather, you’ll probably look at us askance if we suggest you take a walk. How about if that walk involved ice cream and a lesson in the history of food? Goodness, we didn’t see you sneak(er) up on us!

Pop(sicle) Tate’s

A slightly modified version of his Old Delhi food walks, Himanshu Verma (of Red Earth and 1100 Walks) designed the Sharbat Kulfi walk in Old Delhi to put a focus on 100 year old recipes and the people who are still making them. In the past, all these kulfi sellers would go door to door, a practice which is quickly fading. Which is why Himanshu is taking you to find them.

Stops will include Duli Chand’s kulfi, not only traditional pista and malai but also a range of sorbet-like kulfis, including pomegranate and phalsa. Plus, he does a mango stuffed with kulfi—a take on the fruit and ice cream that Himanshu assures us is even more delectable than it sounds. Sold yet? There’s more. Lassi from  Amritsari Lassi Walla, who is “relatively new” having come into Old Delhi in the 1970s, and a visit to the original Giani’s ice cream. Himanshu dismisses their branches across the city, but approves of this, the original and their kulfi-falooda.

Lassi Come Home

Wash it all down with a walk through the spice market for fresh organic sharbat, rose and khas all made from natural material and some vendors getting sharbat versions from around the country, it can be a little geography trip for your tongue. Himanshu plans to have a day-long sharbat workshop in his home in June,  so if distilling is your thing, keep your eyes open for that.

Ittar late than never!

Getting thereMeet at Fatehpuri  Mosque Main Gate, 5 pm, Sunday, May 26, email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call 41671100 to register, Rs 1,500 per person.

 

 
bpb Review: Les Gateaux Patisserie
Monday, 20 May 2013 10:45



If not a French word, there’s certainly a German one for the sound that you make when you bite into really, really good dessert. It can’t be the same kind of noise you make for steak—that’s more guttural—or something that comes with a good wine, that’s more a sigh. That phrase would have come in handy when we received a large transparent plastic box full of goodies from brand new delivery-only patisserie Les Gateaux.

 

Shake Your Bon Bon

Run by two guys who prefer to go by pseudonyms (“for our own personal reasons”) Les Gateaux is the brainchild of MJ the MBA/marketing person and AJ the chef. Together they work out of a small kitchen in Faridabad, focusing on keeping rent costs low so that they can price their goods well. In our massive box tied with a purple ribbon were macarons and cookies, tarts and blondies.

 

They also do a “chocoron”, a macaron dipped in chocolate, and we got a passion fruit version, pink and yielding on the inside with a crisp chocolate shell surrounding it, bits of fruit crumbing with the chocolate. In the macaron section, particular kudos to salty caramel, a tight sticky layer of toffee holding together a buttercup yellow macaron shell, a salt sprinkle saving it from being too sweet.

 

Takes The Biscuit

Crumby and flaky, the white chocolate, cashew and cranberry blondie requires you to place a saucer under your chin. The only problem we had with this were the bits of cranberry which resembled more the candied fruit you get in a fruity bun than the whole cranberries we were expecting, which would have added a slightly more tart flavor to the cookie.

 

On to the savouries – a blue cheese and leek tart and a stuffed onion tart with pancetta tasted almost the same, both sharing a quiche-like interior life, onions baked into creamy sauce and a soft pastry base. Not bad, but not quite as memorable as the desserts.

 

Dough, Re, Mi

We ended with—and have been snacking ever since—on vanilla and chocolate diamonds, two rows of white and brown cookies, like the Ebony And Ivory song. Dusted with sugar around the ends, these taste of our childhood, cookies old school bakeries used to serve up when we were little.

 

In a city filled with home bakers charging exorbitant prices (and no delivery) for their baked goods, Les Gateaux is a sweet deal. Considering our little order is still being eaten several days later, we suggest you order in moderation—but not too much restraint.

 

Getting there: Call 9958537683 or email lesgateauxindia.com, visit the Facebook page for the menu, Rs 110 for 150 grams of white chocolate, cashew and cranberry blondie.

 
Great Delhi Pop Up!
Friday, 17 May 2013 16:30

What: The Great Delhi Pop Up, Ojas Art, Qutab, event invite here, email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it to sign up , Rs 1500 per person.

 

Why: About a year ago, Anoothi Vishal, a journalist and columnist, began her Great Delhi Pop-Ups, something so underground that she was a bit reluctant to give us details. Much digging (in) later, you can now up for a dinner where home chef Bharati Sanghi will be dishing out Marwari food made from ingredients like home-distilled essence of Ajmeri roses, sweet onions from Bikaner, and, believe it or not, aloe vera. Can’t make it this time? Anoothi organizes regular events once every two months (stay in touch via email or Facebook) where she sometimes cooks with her Old Delhi family and sometimes sources delish home cooks. Coming up: Assamese food, community centric cuisine, and Indian Italian dishes that explore trade links between the two countries. Expect a lovely sit down meal at an art gallery, with butler service, or even book readings. Invites are hand delivered, and you can pay when you get yours.

 

When:  Saturday, May 18, 8 pm to 10 pm.

 
Smoke House Deli, HKV On The Coup Card!
Thursday, 16 May 2013 15:35



Smoke House Deli recently opened in a gorgeous leafy bit of HKV. Look out for sketchy stories on the walls done by Turmeric Design and  yummy sandwiches. Exciting news: Coup Card holders (www.coupcard.in) will be able to get 15% off! Deli-rious with joy?


Have a look at our slideshow of Smoke House Deli's interiors here.

 
bpb Review: Blue Nile, Ethiopian Cultural Centre
Wednesday, 15 May 2013 11:19



One of the nice things about living in Delhi is that it’s a cultural smorgasbord of various foods, people and events. With a line of embassies, all you have to do is know the right people (or be a member in some cases), and you could be eating steak in Australia, pizza in Italy, kimchi in Korea or closer home, just stroll into Andhra Pradesh or Assam for lunch.  And yesterday, we went to Ethiopia, a little restaurant in a little cultural centre, filled with locals, but we weren’t the only Indians.

 

The Queen Of Denial

Blue Nile is the restaurant at the two month old Ethiopian Cultural Centre. We’ve experimented with West African food before, and came out of that experience a little bit scarred, but our dining companion had eaten Ethiopian food in New Jersey and raved about it on our ride there. The restaurant is well lit and slightly sterile looking, with glass-topped tables and a selection of spice under the glass, much like an Indian “family” restaurant. We were even offered a choice of Ethiopian or Indian food by the all-Indian wait staff.

 

But it got exotic again very quickly. The items on the menu are not very well described next to their foreign names, so we picked at random. Yebgg firfir (mutton and chilli sauce mixed with injera), beyaynetu (a mixed vegetable platter containing most of the vegetarian section) and injera (described as flat sour dough, which instantly made both of us think of pita bread.)

 

Platter-itudes

Beyaynetu came first—a small selection of vegetarian dishes served on top of the injera on a large plate to share. The injera is like a dosa, fermented and crepe like, and you and your dining companion have to essentially tear it off the bottom of the plate and use it to mop up the toppings.  These included tikil gommen alicha (cabbage with potato, garlic, turmeric), which was a bit blah, bright yellow but not very flavourful, fosolia bekarrot (green beans and carrots), like a steak side dish, whole boiled and harmless, shiro wet (peas powder in special spice), mushy and grainy at the same time, this was unexpectedly good: tangy, lightly spiced and unlike anything we’d tasted before.  Then there were two types of lentils—defen mesir (black) and missir kik (red), out of which we far preferred the red, even though they were both cooked exactly the same way,

 

There was also something we couldn’t identify—a red gravy with an overspiced pakoda in the middle of it—which we later realized was shimbira aasa (chick peas with chilli sauce)—but the chilli didn’t sit right, discordant and out of sorts and after a nibble, we had to leave the pakoda to its own devices.

 

The meat came wrapped up in injera instead of on a thaali, and when we unwrapped it, we saw more injera cooked with the meat. To avoid a carb overload, we just took spoons and ate the inside filling. Deliciously tender, with not at all too much spice, the chilli and salt at perfect balance, this was our favourite part of the meal, but we wish there had been more meat in the meat to injera ratio.

 

Mug Shots

We ended with Ethiopian coffee, which you can choose to have right where you are or in the coffee room—and we’d suggest you go to the coffee room. Shaped like a hut with a sloping bamboo roof and low couches, it’s fun to sit there and watch the waiter prepare the coffee. There’s a long complicated ritual involving Ethiopians and coffee and ours was served to us in little handle-less china cups, sugar and no milk, with cold popcorn on the side. There is alcohol to be had as well—your basic vodka, rum, beer—but if you can only drink one thing, we suggest the coffee.

 

After, the waiter took us to the museum—essentially a display section for a travel agency---ad we looked around the pretty fairy-lit garden. Unlike the 567 African Corner this wasn’t so much about making homesick expats happy, it was more like a gentle introduction to Ethiopia, and it worked, because that’s where our next holiday will be, our friend and us both decided.

 

Getting there: 7/50 G Niti Marg (near Nehru Park), Chanakya Puri, call 24673654, Rs 1,000  for a meal for two without alcohol

 
Nashta Paani: A Food Truck
Thursday, 09 May 2013 23:04

What: Nashta Paani snack truck, Near Sultanpur Metro Station, 7 am to 7 pm daily.

 

Why: Three cups of coffee do not a suitable breakfast make. Which is why we're super excited about the opening of an on-the-go breakfast and snack truck, Nastha Paani. An excited phone call revealed that they're planning both English Breakfast as well as Indian breakfast (packed so you can eat them at your desk while you work). There will also be an evening snack section- for your long commute back home. At the moment, they’re only parking at the Sultanpur Metro station, but there should be more locations later. Put that bag of crisps down slowly now.

 

When: It's going to be a Jerky ride; coming early next month.

 
bpb review: Mia Bella, HKV
Thursday, 09 May 2013 11:47



With a name like that, you would think that Mia Bella is an Italian restaurant, but things are rarely that straightforward in the labrinthyne streets of Hauz Khas Village. The décor at this new restaurants can indeed pass for Italian (splashes of a sea-green on the walls, yellow chevron tiled floors, wrought-iron chairs, a Cupid mural), but the menu had us playing a hungry guessing game. Who’s Waldo?

 

A Mixed Tape


A large section of the dishes here are devoted entirely to Braai-  South African version of grills and barbeque- a smaller number to Lebanese, an Indian grouping (cue eye roll) and some pasta and pizza. After going through this jumble, we needed a drink, but of course, no liquor licence yet, so we grumpily settled for an iced tea – and that’s when the good stuff began.

 

Our drink had not a single trace of powdery Nestea mixture, turning out instead to be a tall citrus-y trip to somewhere cooler, somewhere with big flowers and a blue pool. It was a perfect start to our meal, and suitably perked, we got ourselves a tall order of  Something Blue (pizza), Something Braai-ed (pepper fish fillet) and Something Old (a Mezze platter)

 

Bra(ii)ce Yourself

The pepper fish fillet made its way to us first, gleaming with oil and surrounded by salsa, a shredded lettuce, potato wedges and two huge hunks of garlic bread. This is where the goodness of Mia Bella lies, in its portions and its food.

 

Grilled just right, the peppered consistency of the tender fish was lovely, better still went smeared with that salsa. Also, good potato wedges! The vegetarian mezze platter was pretty and plump,  an assortment of spinach fatayer, falafel, cheese sambosik accompanied with baba ganoush, hummus, tzaziki and tabouleh. Though each dip held its own in both flavour and consistency, it was the tzaziki which stole the show, creamy and flavoured with garlic and lemon.

 

Give Pizza A Chance

A Margharita pizza, however, was a bit of a disappointment, far too heavy on cheese with faint traces of – could it be?! – store-bought tomato sauce. We enjoyed the crust though, crisp and speckled with oregano.

 

The apple pie was great comfort food: a sugared catacomb surface revealing chunky pieces of apple which went with vanilla ice-cream as old friends do, without much fanfare but fitting just right.

 

Mia Bella might not be out of the closet about their food orientation just yet, but we suggest you get to know it anyway.

 

Getting there: 50 Hauz Khas Village, 3rd and 4th Floor, call 9818959694, Rs 2500 for a meal for two without alcohol.

 

 

 

 

 
Gypsy Kitchen: Pop-Ups With Aunties
Monday, 06 May 2013 13:07




Here's something to mark on your calendars for the next time you're in Mumbai, especially if you're missing home-cooked food on a business trip.

Does your mum/aunt/grandmom have recipes that could give any cooking show a raan for their money? Get them in touch with the Gypsy Kitchen--food and heritage conservation project-- a brand new initiative that is looking to conserve the tradition of Indian home cooking through a fun dining format. Launched by Riyaaz Amlani, chef Gresham Fernandes (of Salt Water Café, Smoke House Deli) and Ayaz Basrai of The Busride Design Studio, this project will collaborate with home cooks to bring yum food to you in a pop up format at surprise locations in Mumbai. Plus, since Shroom was all about redefining molecular gastronomy for Delhi, you know this venture is going to be interesting at the very least.

How very aunty-establishment!


Getting there: Nomad's Land begins on May 24, but suggest cooks/apply now through the Facebook page.


 
bpb review: Themis Backwood Kitchen & Patio
Monday, 06 May 2013 11:52



In Basel, Switzerland is a restaurant called blindekuh (translated from German it means blind man's bluff) where you can experience dining in complete darkness. Last evening a strange turn of events offered us a similar deal. Here's a first hand account:


The story begins at a new restaurant called Themis Backwood Kitchen & Patio which their Facebook page and several phone calls assured us was open for business. We arrived suitably hungry and were greeted with a beautiful courtyard dotted with stone tables and benches. Four white column pillars led us indoors to what we imagined would be a white-walled and blue tiled space. Instead we walked into semi-darkness. Aladdin lamps were swaying softly from the ceiling, dispensing more shadows than light. Split into two sections, we opted for the lower level where the couches seemed more comfortable and hazard free in this darkness than chairs. The extremely friendly and polite manager proceeded to inform us that the menu was still being fleshed out, however he would take us through a section of hand picked appetizers and main dishes. Reference for dining in darkness, now absolute and complete.


A Shot in The Dark

This section of the evening was almost begging for cocktails and we promptly ordered ourselves a Cosmopolitan and mojito. The Cosmo was too syrupy, the mojito basically rum with a sprinkling of sugar. Sensing our fear of the drink, our waitstaff offered to replace it with a kiwi martini. The proportions just right this time, the fresh kiwi kick lifted our moods.


Our first appetizer, Greek chicken, was a dish of five chicken pieces lying side by side, crowned with fine shavings of parmesan. We named them Apollo, Ares, Artemis, Aphrodite and Athena. Well seasoned and extremely tender, the chicken was well cooked but missing any Greek flavouring – no lemon, olive oil, garlic or oregano in whiffing distance. Our vegetarian starter, cheese fafa, met a similar conclusion. Though the cottage cheese was marinated to almost poetic softness, the heavy handed sweet and spicy seasoning made it closer to chilly paneer than a Greek starter.


Candle In The Wind

Our main course was Chicken Iftidada. Unfortunately no Greek main course just yet for vegetarians and we had to make do with tawa paratha and paneer makhani. The paratha was well-done, flaking softly yet holding well against a delicious gravy. Once again Themis got their cottage cheese right, with fresh, soft cubes doused in trademark creamy, makhani gravy.

The chicken also stood its ground. Shredded and doused in what looked like a secret sauce (in the feeble light that our table lamp cast), it sat on a bed of creamy potatoes which had a slightly burnt edge - a combination which tasted better than it sounds. We could taste the basil in the chicken and the lemon-y undertones made a sweet contrast against the potatoes.

Like at blindekuh, we learnt how to trust our other senses in lieu of sight. But fun as the experience was, next time give us an entire menu and bright lighting any day.

Getting There: S1-S7, West Bazaar, Garden of Five Senses, Said-ul-Ajaib Village, call 9871262600. Rs 3000 for a meal for two with alcohol

 
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