Nagpur is no longer just about the oranges. Here you can pick conical bra-inspired Madonna jackets, shift dresses named Betty Boop, box pleat pants and other juicy, juicy couture.
Manning this newfound orange county is 24-year-old Farah Sanjana, a recently returned London School of Fashion graduate who launched her self-titled label (prêt, couture and bespoke) for men and women’s Western wear (December 2010), ships all over the country and is plotting her Mumbai invasion as we speak.
In Rind Sight
While in the UK, Farah worked a six month stint assisting pattern cutting for super designer Vivienne Westwood, a job that involved assisting backstage at Paris and London Fashion Week, helping put together a dress for actress Kim Cattrall and working on Hollywood star Anne Hathaway's gown for the premiere of Alice in Wonderland. Following this, she returned home to Nagpur with innovation, quirks and a waste-not ethic, all of which she picked up on the job. The result? A crop of clothes that’s sexy and rebellious, basic and androgynous, and sometimes just plain strange.
The Excitement is Pulpable
Farah’s collection, described in her own words as “structured and androgynous”, features mostly waist coats, trousers and jackets, with some designs overlapping for men and women. “Even when I make dresses, I like to use strong suiting fabric to anchor buoyant chiffons and georgettes,” she explains. But ever since a few of her trousers and jackets were deemed unwearable, Farah has been trying to incorporate more fluid fabrics and designs into her “rigid” lines. “I guess people just aren’t ready for some of my designs yet,” she says. Enter wispy Wanderer gown, exit Quasimodo coat that gives the wearer an illusion of being hunchbacked.
If you’re looking for breezy, stroll through her Spring/Summer garden of blooms dusted with pista, lemon and lilac, while bolder colours and embellishments like rivets and chains can be found in the Cruise line. But what bpb really has its eye on are the super interesting Autumn/Winter tops that sport crazily constructed collars and have big pearl drops hanging from the ends of zippers. Coming soon: An evening line that borrows detailing from sportswear. While Farah’s collection of men’s ready-to-wear is “tiny”, she does take bespoke orders for shirts, trousers and suits.
Fruit of the Loom
Until Farah creates liaisons with Mumbai boutiques, you can view the designs on her Facebook group, order a size (or send in specific measurements) and wait for your package to arrive. The designer has also tied up with a Mumbai studio in case basic alterations are required.
Meanwhile, bpb looks forward to more from this fashion fire starter who reminds us that oranges are not the only fruit.